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E36 General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.

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Old 02-23-2006, 12:02 AM   #1
catalyst

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Amsoil rocks.

Amsoil > Mobil 1

Nuff said.

But really, it is, i changed out my mobil one today at a little over 3k miles of use.. reason being that it was giving me horrible gas mileage and it just looked dirty.

My car pulls stronger. It really does.. i did a little butt dyno from 2500 rpm's in 5th to 125 MPH, and it IS faster.

Pulls noticably harder all the way to redline in all gears.

It rev's more freely too and simply runs better.

I used 5w-30, but the only reason i did is because 0w-30 which is their best highest performance oil, is 10 bucks a quart and this oil change is more of a flush to get all the shitty mobil 1 out of my engine.

So yeah, go to www.amsoil.com and order.. RIGHT NOW!!

And incase you dont beleive me.. here is some rock solid data that proves that amsoil is far superior to M1. http://undergrad.nova.edu/kevin/amsoilstudy.cfm
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:04 AM   #2
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Hum, I'll definately have to look into this. I'm running Mobil 1 right now.

I bet Rob is going to like this thread too when he reads it.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:04 AM   #3
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Hmm maybe I should use synthetic oil if it helps that much. My bro uses it and praises synthetic oil. I guess once I get my oil leak fixed i'll try that stuff out.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:15 AM   #4
catalyst

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Originally Posted by 94bmw325i
Hmm maybe I should use synthetic oil if it helps that much. My bro uses it and praises synthetic oil. I guess once I get my oil leak fixed i'll try that stuff out.
I wouldnt use petroleum based if you paid me.

This will give you an idea of why synthetic is so much better than petroleum based oil's:

Quote:
Did you know that an oil's "film strength" refers to the amount of pressure required to force out a film of oil from between two pieces of flat metal? The higher the film strength, the more protection is provided to such parts as piston rings, timing chain, cams, lifters and rocker arms...wherever the lubricate is not under oil-system pressure. Synthetic oils routinely exhibit a nominal film strength of well over 3,000 psi, while petroleum oils average somewhat less than 500 psi! The result is more protection between between moving parts with synthetic oils versus mineral/petroleum.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:19 AM   #5
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im coming up on an oil change, will definately have to check thsi out.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:29 AM   #6
catalyst

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key points in understanding oil and why amsoil is better:

(Taken from the link in my first post)
Quote:
Did you know that contrary to what many take for granted, higher viscosity in and of itself does not translate into better engine protection. Extensive testing has shown the opposite to be in fact true. As long as a lower-viscosity oil is formulated to resist evaporation and provide high film strength, this lighter oil will actually deliver more complete protection to the engine parts, since its more rapid circulation delivers both better lubrication per se, and far better cooling characteristics... a critical advantage, given that oil flow furnishes up to 30% of an engine's cooling requirements. In short, don't be too concerned with the relatively lower viscosity ratings of some synthetic oils. Synthetics are a whole different ball game from yesteryear's petroleums.
Quote:
In discussions with Mr. Darren Wallace (Technical Design Engineer and Chemist) of Amsoil Company, he suggested strongly I use the 0W-30 in the M3 for street and track. His suggestion rather surprised me! I asked him, "track too" and he said "most definitely." I will only lightly attempt to explain why he made his suggestion to me.

He explained that BMW engines, as are most others, had very tight engine tolerances for their bearings, etc. He said using the Amsoil 0W-30 would protect these bearings (and the entire engine) better than ANY 30 weight grade oil they have ever tested, including their other 30 weight multi-vis grade oils they offer. The anti-wear additive package for this 0W-30 oil, he said, is simply the best they have ever seen! The chemical make-up of the other Amsoil oils don't allow this same anti-wear package to be used. He also explained this particular oil is better at dealing with the contaminents (hydrocarbons left from combustion), dirt and corrosion, etc. than the other oils.

He said using the 0W-30 would offer unheard of protection at dry start-up where the anti-wear properties, only found in Amsoil's 0W-30, would virtually eliminate the metal-on-metal damage incurred when first cranking up an engine. He further explained that damage results whenever an engine is first cranked up, even if the ambient temperature is 100 degrees F.

There is much more to the anti-wear abilities of this "one oil" but I won't attempt to even try to cover it all. He did admit that no other oil that they have in their line of products, as good as they all are, has the characteristics, properties, abilities, traits and technology that the 0W-30 does. In fact, the way he put it was, "the Amsoil 0W-30 could be five years ahead of the competition!"

He also added that all 0W oils are more expensive to produce and this is the reason most other synthetic oil producers don't offer 0W oils. In the future, he said, this will change in his opinion.

Mr. Wallace further said that this oil is highly recommended not only for street use in the M3 but also in the most demanding and continuous high rpm, high temperature, high abuse conditions! He explained many SCCA entries (and other forms of racing) are using it. And that the oil's film-strength, shear/tear properties, anti-wiping protection, lubricating ability, engine cooling, etc. are the best.

Keep in mind that the second number of an oil's viscosity grade (30 in this case) is the steady weight of the oil when at 100 degrees C (212 degrees F) and it compares with any other 30 weight grade oil, in thickness, regardless whether it's a 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30. This is a A.S.E standard test which must be passed to be called a particular viscosity grade oil. (Don't let the "0W" verses the more common 5W or 10W confuse you.) This particular oil's ability to remain a 30 weight oil in very abusive engine temperatures at well over 150 degrees C (302 degrees F) allows it to be a strong and safe oil for street, strip and track.

He explained that using a heavier weight oil is not necessary or desired "unless" the engine is built losely (with wide bearing tolerances) which BMW's engine's are not. Also, he stated that car manufacturer's recommendations for using a heavier "petroleum" based oil such as 15W-40 or 15W-50 was only recommended because of the protection those petroleum weight oils could offer. Using lighter synthetic oils in lieu of heavier petroleum based oils offers "more" engine protection while also offering better wear protection too. It's a win-win situation.
I personally find that all of this is true, and after switching to a lighter oil i find that my car likes higher rpm's much more and is much more smooth up top, i beleive the Mobil1 that i was using was just to thick and was actually hurting the motor.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:32 AM   #7
Rob

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Amsoil is some pretty good car-grub.I would never run 0W-30 though. 5W-30 should be the lowest you should go. The only problem with Amsoil is it can be expensive and I don't like the idea that I have to order it from a website when I can just pick up Mobil1 at Walmart. I like my Mobil1 5W-40 Truck and SUV/15W-50 Blend "k-thanksyou-verymuch".
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:37 AM   #8
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I use the Amzoil gear lube in the bird, we used to "cook" rear axles after about 5 hours of hammering it. Used to have to wear gloves just to pull axle shafts out, after switching to Amzoil I only have to check the axles rarely and they're always cool to the touch - not hot.
On the E34 I use Castrol (full syns) in engine, trans & diff - but use Amzoil grease on bearings, etc. (Castrol rep is motorhead bud)
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:42 AM   #9
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i dont have any bases to argue agaisnt you, but just remember than you are comparing 3000 mile old mobil 1 to brand new 0 mile amsoil, but either way, glad you like it!
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:47 AM   #10
Rob

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I would also like to mention that 10w-60 is being used in new BMW engines, which right now have all the HP they can pull from them. Now, why would BMW require 10w-60 if it was too thick to get to the bearings? Also, no offence, but pulling a source that uses a worker at Amsoil can not be justified. The only true tests are provided via an independent, unbaised, research company. Maybe it's just me, but with even 5W-30, I would be afraid of VANOS rattle the whole time.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:53 AM   #11
catalyst

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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsperf
i dont have any bases to argue agaisnt you, but just remember than you are comparing 3000 mile old mobil 1 to brand new 0 mile amsoil, but either way, glad you like it!
Yea i understand this.. but the way i see it is the M1 is supposed to last 15K miles with zero change in protection and peroformance.. it obviously does not.

Theoretically i should not have to change my oil for 25,000 miles, amsoil guarantee's the 5w-30 for that period of time and the 0w-30 for 37,000 miles.

Yes, that is correct^^.

I bought the oil from a dealer in my area, the dude who sells it was a really cool guy, he had a mopar hotrod that he had not changed the oil on on 7 years, dont think it was some hunk of junk either, it was a show winning peice, immaculate in everyway. Amsoil actuallt makes an oil filter/testing system for different applications.. Ie: they have a dual filter system and collection tank that they have intervals of replacement on. After a certain number of miles the collection tank its removed and sent into amsoil for a full oil analysis, depending on what is shown the oil is either kept for more use or replaced. The guy that i bought the oil from had this system on his hotrod, and he said that the oil was the same on a molecular level as it was almost 7 years ago.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:59 AM   #12
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Keep us posted further down the road. I'ld like to hear more from someone that has actually used it vs some sales pitch
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:59 AM   #13
catalyst

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Originally Posted by Rob
I would also like to mention that 10w-60 is being used in new BMW engines, which right now have all the HP they can pull from them. Now, why would BMW require 10w-60 if it was too thick to get to the bearings? Also, no offence, but pulling a source that uses a worker at Amsoil can not be justified. The only true tests are provided via an independent, unbaised, research company. Maybe it's just me, but with even 5W-30, I would be afraid of VANOS rattle the whole time.
The numerical data in the link is given by each company as fact. The section at the bottom that i qouted is of course directly from amsoil, and the data reflects the statements.

I have no reason not to beleive those statements myself.. especially with the supporting data.

I seem to recall a small bearing issue regarding the s54 myself, and i have to say that the BMW recommended 10w30 that is used every 15k oil change probably does not suffice and most likely had something to do with the problem. That is speculation on my behalf though.
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Old 02-23-2006, 01:00 AM   #14
catalyst

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Quote:
Originally Posted by c1apton
Keep us posted further down the road. I'ld like to hear more from someone that has actually used it vs some sales pitch
Will do.. i will not change the oil until it becomes dirty.. that is with 3k mile filter changes.
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Old 02-23-2006, 01:06 AM   #15
Rob

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Quote:
Originally Posted by catalyst
Yea i understand this.. but the way i see it is the M1 is supposed to last 15K miles with zero change in protection and peroformance.. it obviously does not.

Theoretically i should not have to change my oil for 25,000 miles, amsoil guarantee's the 5w-30 for that period of time and the 0w-30 for 37,000 miles.

Yes, that is correct^^.

I bought the oil from a dealer in my area, the dude who sells it was a really cool guy, he had a mopar hotrod that he had not changed the oil on on 7 years, dont think it was some hunk of junk either, it was a show winning peice, immaculate in everyway. Amsoil actuallt makes an oil filter/testing system for different applications.. Ie: they have a dual filter system and collection tank that they have intervals of replacement on. After a certain number of miles the collection tank its removed and sent into amsoil for a full oil analysis, depending on what is shown the oil is either kept for more use or replaced. The guy that i bought the oil from had this system on his hotrod, and he said that the oil was the same on a molecular level as it was almost 7 years ago.

First off, you can use M1 extended performance for 15,000 miles. The catch is that you MUST change out your filter every 5,000, or you will overflow the filter and cause the dirt and impurities to enter back into the system. That is the main reason why it looks like it could not hold it's own for 15,000 miles. It will be the same with Amsoil.

Also, you can have synthetic oil sit for 7 years and have it be fine. It will not change one bit. You can not base synthetic oils off of years, but ONLY off of milage. For all what you know, that car could have just sat in the shop for 7 years. Also, im not 100% sure on this, but wern't synthetic (atleast full synthetic) oils a recent discovery like 5 years ago? One more thing, I'm not up for sending in a collection tank to Amsoil everytime I need my oil checked. Shipping alone for those type of contaminates "legally" must be up in the 30s to 40s anyway. It would be best to just go ahead and get fresh oil into the system.
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