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E36 General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.

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Old 09-06-2005, 11:49 PM   #1
bitcore
 
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E36 stock rear control arm bolt torque

Whats the torque spec for both ends of the rear control arm? The bolt that attatches to the diff carrier seems to keep coming loose on me and I'm afraid of stripping the piss out of something & having to switch bolts, which would require me to jack the car etc etc.

I can't find it anywhere
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Old 09-07-2005, 05:39 AM   #2
Dudesky

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Control arm to final drive carrier (inner): 57 ft-lb
Control arm to rear trailing arm (outer): 81 ft-lb

This applies to both upper and lower arms. Did you use new nuts? They're self locking and designed for one time use. If you reused the old ones, try applying a threadlocker before putting them back on.
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Old 09-07-2005, 06:41 AM   #3
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bah.
I was diagnosing some weird rear-end-ness one day by duct taping a webcam to something stable, looking from the back end of the rear wheel at the diff carrier and noticed that the shit is wiggling up and down a half inch in there, not just rotating like it's suppose to.
so, I tightened that little bitch up. The dealership had replaced a bent arm themselves, and I will never go back to them due to previous experiences. Apparently they are too lazy to tighten it down hard enough....

Is it hard to replace the bolt with a new one? (IE: Do I have to jack it up or do anything funky to the suspinsion to get the arm where I need it?)
I know I need to get an alignment after this but my camber seems fine and I dont have 100$ laying around for a 4 wheel alignment :P
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Old 09-07-2005, 07:00 AM   #4
Dudesky

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There are 2 schools of thought to this . . . some say the diff carrier has to come down in order for you to remove the bolt, and others say it's not necessary. Honestly, I've only glanced at mine and haven't really stared at it long enough to figure out if there is enough clearance to get the bolt out without 'major surgery'. But if you're just replacing the nut, I don't see why you'd have to remove the bolt. Other than that, you should be fine as long as the whole assembly is completely suspended and you've unloaded the tension on the coil spring.
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Old 09-09-2005, 08:06 AM   #5
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The bolt can be removed, BUT its a major PIA to do it. You basically have to move the bolt at a 45 degree angle and wiggle the control arm itself to do it. When I installed my solid control arms it took me about 4 hours.. BLAH.
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Old 09-09-2005, 09:12 AM   #6
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Oh damn, well looks like I'm not removing it any time soon :P
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Old 09-09-2005, 06:12 PM   #7
Dudesky

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeit00
The bolt can be removed, BUT its a major PIA to do it. You basically have to move the bolt at a 45 degree angle and wiggle the control arm itself to do it. When I installed my solid control arms it took me about 4 hours.. BLAH.
Good to know . . I'll be replacing all the bushings in the rear next spring.
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