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E36 General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.

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Old 05-29-2010, 12:05 AM   #1
Lamdog

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HELP! 1997 E36 318i Engine Stall / RPM Drops when gassing hard or going up hill

Hi guys, I am at a lost now. I have been dealing with my 97 E36 318i for the past few months now becuase it stalls during idle or when I am stopped at a light. Well, I believe I fixed that problem now by changing out my Mass Air Sensor, Idle Control Valve, and Cam Shaft Position Sensor. The car now idles great and doesn't die out.

HOWEVER, now it has a new problem: When I am driving and gasing it hard, there will be moments where the rpm would suddenly drop as if the car dies out, and I lose power for a couple seconds, but yet, the engine does not die out??? The engine will kick back and keeps running. This is more pronounced with I am passing or trying to get up a hill. When the car is idle, it seems to do this about about 4,000 rpm.

So, I changed out the 2 O2 sensors and got a new fuel filter this weekend ... but still got the same problem! HELP!!!
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:47 AM   #2
Big Evil
 
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Vacuum leak, smoke the system to locate it. Or blockage or crimp in a fuel line, or fuel pump dying out.
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:19 PM   #3
kazamali

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I'm with Big Evil on this one, plus I'd invest in a cheap OBDII scanner scanner software package. Your car is definitely dying under load. Sounds like you may have solved the air issue (for sure, after a smoke test), but you need to investigate fuel as a vacuum leak isn't as much of an issue under acceleration (more vaccum at idle).

Take your car to a shop and (along with the smoke test) do a fuel pressure test. I'm not sure what YOUR pressure should be, but on M3's for the same year it's 51psi (mine was at 45, but I'm sure yours would be lower on a 318). A good test is to crimp the return fuel line while the car is at idle. The pressure should jump up (Because you're inhibiting the fuel pressure regulator). If it doesn't, then it's your pump. You've already replaced the fuel filter, which is the first thing I would have recommended.

Not to get too drawn out here, but if you're running short on fuel during hard acceleration, the OBDII software will be able to tell you trim values at different Throttle postions/RPM's and help you narrow down your diagnosis.

Check out my post here:

http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/m...m-experts.html
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:38 AM   #4
Lamdog

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Finally got this pinned down, but had to take it to a specialty shop to find out. The culprit was simple ... my "aftermarket" camshaft position sensor. Guy at the shop took one look at it and called it out right away!

Changed out aftermarket sensor ($55) with and OEM sensor ($116) and the car runs perfect!!!

As I have posted in another post ... for electronic parts, the rule to go by is to pay a bit more and get OEM. With all other parts and labor that I bought trying to figure out what the problem was costed me ... any OEM parts would have paid for itself 3 times over and then some!!! I've learned it the hard way ...

Thanks guys for your input!
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:28 PM   #5
red97tj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamdog View Post
Hi guys, I am at a lost now. I have been dealing with my 97 E36 318i for the past few months now becuase it stalls during idle or when I am stopped at a light. Well, I believe I fixed that problem now by changing out my Mass Air Sensor, Idle Control Valve, and Cam Shaft Position Sensor. The car now idles great and doesn't die out.

HOWEVER, now it has a new problem: When I am driving and gasing it hard, there will be moments where the rpm would suddenly drop as if the car dies out, and I lose power for a couple seconds, but yet, the engine does not die out??? The engine will kick back and keeps running. This is more pronounced with I am passing or trying to get up a hill. When the car is idle, it seems to do this about about 4,000 rpm.

So, I changed out the 2 O2 sensors and got a new fuel filter this weekend ... but still got the same problem! HELP!!!
hey does your car jerk as the rpm's drop like it's misfiring (similar to knock sensor kicking in)?
my car has been hesitating & jerking intermittenly as i drive around 70-80mph. i guess it normally jerks around 3200-3300rpm & could be violent at certain times. i've changed out the plugs/coils/fuel pressure regulator/coolant temp sensor already & made sure there's no vacuum leaks. also there are no codes showing up. the next thing i was going to get is the crank sensor. but now i see your post, i'm wondering if it's my camshaft sensor.
please let me know.
thanks in advance.

Last edited by red97tj; 07-27-2010 at 11:32 PM..
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:24 PM   #6
Lamdog

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Re: red97tj
It's not so much the speed, but the rpm that I got the problem and that's normally at about 3000-3500 rpm. I got a sudden drop and power like it just cuts itself off and then the rpm drops and it kicks by on. It seems like you may have a similar problem. Initially when I had the problem there were not CFL also, but after a few weeks of driving it, then it came on. I had two problems, the Mass Air Sensor and the Cam position sensor. Both of which I've changed out. If you elect to do that make sure you get OEM.

Unfortunately, both of these OEM products are freaking expensive!!! But it got my car running in the end and right now it runs like it brand new! So I guess it's worth it.

Have you looked at the fuel filter and the fuel pump yet? The fuel filter is cheap, so if you havn't done so, replace it. The pump on the other hand is a bit more, so you may want to narrow down the problem before going that route.

Good luck! And keep us posted on your results!!!
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:40 PM   #7
red97tj

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yeah today it's started hesitating on some of the lower gears also. i think you've jinxed me.
as for the fuel filter, i had it change about 1.5yrs ago along w/ upgrading to a walbro fuel pump. i doubt it's the problem but i'll change the filter again since i do have a spare. i did check fuel pressure last night & it was ok.

so when you finally got cel on, did it say it's your cam position sensor that was bad?
i guess i'll bite the bullet & get a new cam sensor. if that doesn't work then i'll move on to the crank sensor. damn expensive parts!!!
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:39 PM   #8
red97tj

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ok just to update:

so these are the things i've tried in the process of fixing her:

1. new plugs & boots - helped w/ the hesitation a bit. it made it less but still was there.
2. new coils (had converted over to c.o.p.) - didn't change a thing
3. new temp sensor (dme feed) - didn't change a thing
4. new fuel pressure regulator - didn't do much
5. swapped out injectors - no change
6. cleaned crankshaft sensor - same
7. cleaned camshaft sensor (looked cleaned when pulled out) - no change
8. checked dme - no visible damage w/ it
9. changed fuel filter - nadda
10. swapped out fuel pump - nothing
11. changed cam sensor - ok for a few minutes until the hesitation returned
12. and the winner is: new crankshaft sensor

she runs like a dream now. idles even silkier smooth than before & pulls hard & obviously no more hesitation.
i was very skeptical about just keep on changing everything because i don't have deep pockets so i actually bought the cam & crankshaft sensors used. i'm glad i did cause it cost around $100 new & the cam sensor would have been a waste then. now i can buy a new crankshaft sensor if i need to later on.

good luck to everyone w/ this hesitation problem. hope this helps.
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Old 08-02-2010, 04:12 AM   #9
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Angry Engine switced-off in the middle of the road

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamdog View Post
Hi guys, I am at a lost now. I have been dealing with my 97 E36 318i for the past few months now becuase it stalls during idle or when I am stopped at a light. Well, I believe I fixed that problem now by changing out my Mass Air Sensor, Idle Control Valve, and Cam Shaft Position Sensor. The car now idles great and doesn't die out.

!!!
I Have same prob with this model but my problem is not solved yet ... while i'm driving on the the middle of the road it stalls ( engine completly off ) some times with huge blast from exhusting pipe and hesitation but all electrical connection even A/C,audio,dash board light normal and break and wheel always working after the engine die out .... after some times or two minuites it starts normal again it happens in irregular way like some times i can drive whole day with out prob ,some times it happens with in few miles again and again ... i gave it to mechanic but he could not fix it , i have already changed all Relay,fuel pump,O2 sensor, Please help i do not know what t check now ...
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:30 AM   #10
tigerclaws

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Please help! After reading this article, it sounds like my bimmer has same problem... I confuse that you guy posted the sensors.. Can you provide the sensor part number. There is one 1. Crankshaft sensor is locate in front of the tooth gear. 2. Camshaft sensor is on the top near the Vanos, so which one you guy talked about.
Thanks
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