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E36 General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.

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Old 09-12-2007, 02:13 PM   #1
cult

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Unhappy Rear End Handling Issue Please Help

Hi everyone,

This is my first post on here and I would just like to say what a great site this is!

A few months ago I bought an 1998 E36 328i Coupe and its always had a strange characteristic with its rear end.

Any potholes or manhole covers I drive over cause the rear of my car to jolt sideways quite noticable (more so in the wet)

For some reason it seems to be more noticable when the weight of the car is on that wheel, ie. say I take a left hand bend and theres a pothole that the right hand rear wheel goes over the rear of the car will jolt to the right, if I take the left hander and the pothole happens to be under the left hand rear wheel then its hardly noticable!
and vice-versa with a right hand bend, like the weight on that rear wheel is causing it.

I wondered if it could be shocks but they seem fine (not bouncy at all)

All tyres have 35psi which is recommended for a full load i believe (according to sticker inside door shut) I did have less psi in the fronts initially but cornering is improved I find running the full load pressures. (this made no difference to the problem I have)

Both rear tyres are a matched pair with good tread (toyo proxies)

I have 17" BMW alloys (the rear boots are wider than the fronts as the rear wheels are wider, 225/45 front and 255/40 rear)

I also took the car and had an alignment at ATS, they told me the front was out and they adjusted it but it made no difference to this problem.

I did notice today that my front passenger side engine mount bracket is cracked at the top and broken away at the bottom :shock: ive ordered a new one from BMW which should be delivered to them by the end of the week but im not convinced this will be whats causing the rear end problem (would love to be proved wrong!)

If anyone can help it would be much appreciated as its really starting to drive me up the wall

Many thanks in advance
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:00 PM   #2
mzbmw325i
 
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man that sounds like your rear is falling apart..just kidding

i ain't E36 specialist, but have you really checked your shocks, check them for leaks, if they have never been replaced since out of the factory, maybe its time to do so, also the mounts on top of them check those for cracks.

could also be your rear bearings.

don't you have any records from the previous owner or did he/she at least tell you what work has been done. i know telling is like fairy tails but it never heards to hear it anyway.

Good luck..more pple here will give you input that's for sure
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:14 PM   #3
Dudesky

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RTABs, most likely . . Rear trailing arm bushings.
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:33 PM   #4
Mila318is

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got to agree with Dudesky because that's what mine is doing and i've been told it's the rtab, the bushes are cheap enough but i'm not sure about the job
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:59 PM   #5
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Old 09-12-2007, 04:36 PM   #6
3050rpm
 
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Yeah, most likely rear trailing arm bushings, although that business with the engine mount bracket has me a little curious, suggesting some hard driving, which in turn means it'd be worth taking a look at the subframe, where the rear shock mounts attach.
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Old 09-12-2007, 04:59 PM   #7
cult

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Thank you everyone for your suggestions, Sorry I forgot to put the mileage, its on 62k miles now, ive done about 5k since I got her.


I shall look into some poly bushes for the rear trailing arms! I wonder if German & Sweedish or Euro Car Parts sell them...

The rear shocks definately dont have any leaks and are not broken at the bottom where they mount, ive not took all the boot lining out to check the top mount points though.

there does not appear to be any clunks/bangs/knocks coming from anywhere whilst driving.

I did have a look for obvious problems underneath but found nothing, I did check most bolts were tight with my torque wrench just incase but all seemed good.

The rear tyres were new when I got the car and are now not far off the wear bars! I guess the constant sideways movement must chew them up pretty quickly!

Was quite shocked to see the engine mount broken to be honest, only noticed when I had the air box etc out to clean my idle valve as she was hunting at idle (cleaning it sorted that nicely)
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Old 09-12-2007, 05:20 PM   #8
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heh word of advice...the harder you drive the car the more money your gonna spend on it.

if you plan on driving the car hard get ready to replace all the bushings, as they will start to deteriorate much quicker.

on the light side of things have the rear bushings checked out. while you back there check the differential bushing also.
How are the transmission mounts?
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Old 09-12-2007, 05:31 PM   #9
drz

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I like working on my car, but RTABs is something I will gladly pay for. You should be able to get it done for about $180 (parts and labor).
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Old 09-12-2007, 07:00 PM   #10
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sorry to butt in, im new to this forum. i recently purchased a 3 series e36 316i 93 model and its ass end does a bloody dance around every corner, back and forth! i have no clue on cars and only passed my test a year ago and bought a good old tank for my first ride! admitadly its done 159k but its solid all round upon inspection with really wide 17"s and new low profiles on but all i have is you guys and a haynes manual so i reckon this will be my next issue for you lot to deal with!! thanks, martin
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Old 09-12-2007, 07:08 PM   #11
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just read more of this thread and looked through my paperwork.i know my old girl has been on the road a while now and has done 159k and 2k of that i my possession but i have every reciept for the last ten years here and she has had tons of ass work done plus a bit on her upfront.im now reckoning that she has had a rough ride.not sure on all previous owners but think im the 5th. havin doubts, but at least im not payin for it!!! may need a local knowledgable person to check over her!
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Old 09-15-2007, 06:50 PM   #12
///Menace328i

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Quote:
Originally Posted by drz
I like working on my car, but RTABs is something I will gladly pay for. You should be able to get it done for about $180 (parts and labor).
it's a very easy job...even if you don't have the RTAB puller/press...I did my job in about 1.5 hrs. and if you are getting RTABs from UUC like I did...jobs might just be 1.0 hrs...and you can put those $180 back in your pocket...or you can give me $130 and I'll do the job for you
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Old 09-16-2007, 07:01 AM   #13
cult

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Originally Posted by ///Menace328i
it's a very easy job...even if you don't have the RTAB puller/press...I did my job in about 1.5 hrs. and if you are getting RTABs from UUC like I did...jobs might just be 1.0 hrs...and you can put those $180 back in your pocket...or you can give me $130 and I'll do the job for you
Would be happy for you to do it, flights to the UK must be pretty cheap these days..

I'm tempted to give it a go myself after hearing that the poly bushes dont need to be pressed in, just gotta find where I can get some!

Dont suppose anyone knows if the passenger side engine mount bracket just sits on the rubber engine mount or if the rubber should be bonded to that metal piece with the bolt that attaches to the bracket?

I fitted my replacement bracket today as the other was broken and noticed that the chunk of metal thats bolted to the bracket was just sitting on top of the rubber.

Many thanks to anyone that can enlighten me.

Last edited by cult; 09-16-2007 at 07:05 AM..
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Old 09-16-2007, 09:28 AM   #14
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Dude - might I say - that is a fabulously constructed tutorial. Good job mate!
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Old 09-16-2007, 01:09 PM   #15
cult

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Originally Posted by CAPiTUL
Dude - might I say - that is a fabulously constructed tutorial. Good job mate!


Dudesky, dreadfully sorry old chap!, I forgot to say in my last post, that is indeed a superb tutorial on changing the RTAB's

Top man!
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