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E36 General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.

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Old 06-25-2012, 02:31 PM   #1
Britar

Name: Britar
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Tracking down non-functioning Cruise Control

Hello!

Just purchased my '93 325is (manual trans) last week and am working out a few kinks.
(Electrical gremlins in the rear lights, tail and brake - but that's not why I'm posting)

I have one that I haven't found anything specific on and wanted to run it by y'all.

The Cruise Control is not activating on the highway (~70mph).
- I checked the fuses and just changed the CC fuse for a new good one just in case.
- I also check ALL the other fuses
- I pulled up on the brake and clutch to make sure they weren't tripping the CC module to turn off
- The brake lights work and go off when I'm not pressing the pedal - so I'm assuming the brake sensor is not tripping it.

OK, here is my theory/question.
Should this car allow the starter to turn over with the clutch out and in gear? Mine does.
I'm wondering if the clutch switch is stuck in the closed/depressed position which is allowing this and not allowing the CC to activate.

Any other thoughts on the CC would be appreciated as well.
I've pushed it, pulled it, clicked it, held it for a couple seconds - nothing.

I commute 110 miles/day so I'd like to get it working

Brian

edit: almost forgot a pic!

Last edited by Britar; 06-25-2012 at 02:32 PM.. Reason: Added Pic
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:43 PM   #2
Britar

Name: Britar
Title: United Newb
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Well, turns out I was right. On the way home I pulled up hard against the clutch pedal. When I did the CC worked, as soon as I moved my foot away it disengaged. Not sure if The switch needs to be adjusted or replaced. We'll see.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:19 AM   #3
Britar

Name: Britar
Title: United Newb
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Update, I pulled the cover off from under the driver's side to get access to the pedal switches. The clutch switch that triggers the cruise control to turn off, and most likely also to allow the car to start requires the clutch to be pulled up hard against the "fully engaged stop" - only then would it audibly click. I've been driving old European sticks for a long time and this doesn't bother me. I just used a "side by side" wire tap to connect to the two wires together behind the switch. Now they are connected, but if someone in the future wants to put it back they can just remove the tap and tape over the connection spots. The plug and switch are still in place.
I'm happy with the result. No change in vehicle behavior for me and now the CC works!

Also, the brake still cancels the CC, which is how I cancel it anyways. and of course the switch will cancel it if you want.

Also, I accidently pulled apart the perfectly functioning brake switch by mistake. I was groping around and thought I had the clutch switch. I'm a big guy and its tough for me to get in there.
So now I get to replace the brake switch like everybody else! I actually managed to put the switch back together so the lights work fine but the computer gives me the brake circuit message.

Any reason to buy the BMW OEM vs JL Germany switch for half the price from bavauto.com?
Thanks

Brian
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:25 AM   #4
Britar

Name: Britar
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ebay has the OEM ones for ~$15. That'll work.
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