Aftermarket Alarm/Remote Start, E46
Here are the pics of the installation of the Viper 5900 alarm/remote start. Make sure that your have all the proper tools, crimps, tapes, etc prior to starting. It's a bitch when you have to go to the hardware shop in the middle of your project. Also note the these picture where taken when I was putting everything back together, hence, its why everyting is already install. With that said, LETS GET STARTED!
Picture 1: The project car 2001 325ci with 19" Hammon wheels wrapped around michelin pilots. Other goodies include custom fitted audiobahn headrest monitors, custom enclosure with 2 15" Audiobahn flame Qs, Audiobahn a1800dt 1800x1 RMS amp, Audiobahn, a6004t 150x4 RMS amp, audiobahn components, and Audiobahn 2 farad capacitor. Trunk is still a work in progress as well as the stereo. Looking to install an aftermarket navi system, but that another DIY.
Picture 2: Start by removing trim panels. First remove the one above the glove compartment then the one the meets the stereo as seen in the picture. All you need a flat head screwdriver to pop off the trim pieces. You can see the LED was run to the stereo location. When I get to installing my aftermarket stereo, there is unused space in the adapter that I will use to put the LED. JUST FYI.
Picture 3: Next remove the stereo. There are two screws on either side of it. Just pull it out and remove the harness in the back. If I recall there is a main harness, the antenna plug, and a smaller plug in the middle of the stereo. This is not seen in the pic.
Picture 4: This is what it looks like with the stereo out. See all those different color wires back there? Those are the wires that you have to run to the drivers side. These include all remote start wires, tachometer wire, trunk pin wire, flashing light wires, brake shutdown wire, and power wires for the alarm.
Picture 5: Now it's time to remove the glove compartment. Look underneath and you will see two tabs like the one in the picture. Remove all four screws.
Picture 6: Next, open the glove compartment. You will see this fabric strand that holds the glove compartment in place. There are two of these—one fabric and one plastic. This is the one of the right of the glove compartment. Remove the small plastic pin with some needle nose pliers. Do the same on the other side.
Picture 7: This is what it looks like with the glove compartment off. Now you have to remove 4 screws to get access to the computer where you make all the connections. Two of them are on the same level as the pin switch as seen on the picture and the other two are behind the ribbons the hold the glove compartment up. Before you yank off this peice, make sure and disconnect two harnessess. One that supplies power to compartment box and the other to you BMW flashlight.
Picture 8: Next remove the bottom panel where the dome light is. You simple pop this thing off. Just be careful not to break it because it has a clamp on the left hand side that attaches to the center console.
In the pic you can see this is where I put the valet switch (right of dome light) and the glass break sensor microphone (to the left of the dome light)
Picture 9: This is what it looks like with the entire glove compartment removed. You see the alarm brain with some wire leading to the drivers side. Feel around that area so that you can see where you can fit the wires through.
Picture 10: This is a close up of the computer that can be seen from picture 9. This is where you make most of your connections. The connections needed are as follows with the designated color wires.
Power door lock - blue/red - Location: 54 pin connector (2nd from the left)
Power door unlock - black/white - Location: 54 pin connector
Door Trigger - red/blue - Location: 54 pin connector
Hood Pin - Purple/green - Location: 26 pin connector (1st from the left)
Trunk release - gray/green - Location: 54 pin connector (more on this later)
Picture 11: This picture shows where you will need to run your siren wires. That rubber piece on the fire wall underneath the computer where you make all your connections leads to the engine compartment in that neat little nook in the left of your engine bay. Good place to mount the siren (sorry no pictures). You can also see where I grounded my alarm, on the bolt just to the lower left of the rubber piece.
Picture 12: This is a picture of the alarm accessories. From left to right is the glass break sensor module (P/N DEI 506T), a relay for the trunk release, and the shock sensor.
The relay for the truck release will need to be wired like this:
Pin 30: gray/green wire on 54 pin connector
Pin 85: 12 volt constant
Pin 86: trigger from alarm
Pin 87: 12 volt constant
Pin 87a: NOT USED
Picture 13: This is a picture of the motion sensor (P/N DEI 508D) inside the housing in the middle of the headliner. I ran the wires around the sunroof to the front of the windshield exiting where the rearview mirror is. This is a good place to put the alarm antennea. Run the wires through the pillar into the area of the glove compartment where the alarm is (sorry no pics--it pretty straight forward, not need to remove anything except weather striping around sunroof).
Picture 14: Now lets move to the drivers side of things. Remove the black panel where the dome light is. You will need to remove 3 screws, a plastic screw that attaches the panel to the center console, and a thick plastic pin near the break pedel attached to the fire wall. Before you pull off the peice, disconnect the speaker (if applicable), dome light, and diagonstic plug.
Picture 15: Now lets move to the under the steering wheel. To remove the plastic piece you need to push on the smaller pins as seen in the pic. There are two of these. Do this and remove the trim peice.
Picture 16: This is a picture of the wires that are run to the drivers side. See where they come out? Its near the A/C vent.
Picture 17: This is where you make all your remote start connections. The following is a list of connections and wiring colors.
12 volt: red/green and red/blue (depending on your application you might only need to tap into one or these or both)
starter: black/blue (this wire needs to be cut and bypassed by the alarm. Pay special attention to what wire goes closest to the ignition and which goes closest to the starter. This is a must because it prevents the starter from grinding)
Ignition: Green (this powers the A/C controls without cranking)
Accessory: Purple (this powers the stereo and nothing else)
While you are down here, connect the brake shutdown wire. Look at the pedal. There is a box switch box up under the dash. Disconect the harness and attach the brake shut down wire to the brown/white wire leading to the brake light module (sorry no pics).
Picture 18: Next run your tach wire to the diagnostic plug and attach it to the only black wire. This will allow your alarm to read the RPMs of your engine. Without this your car will crank but will not start.
Picture 19: Next lets move to the ignition switch. There are two wires that connect to the ring around the ignition (this is the immobilizer antennea). These wire colors are:
Refer to picture 20 for required connections and accessories.
Picture 20: This is a picture under the ignition switch. You can see wher those wires lead to the immobilizer antennea. You will need to purchase an immobilizer bypass (P/N DEI 555B) and will need a spare transponder key for your remote start to work. YOU WILL NEED TO LEAVE THE KEY INSIDE YOUR CAR IN ORDER FOR THE REMOTE START TO WORK. It goes inside the 555B. The 555B has five wires:
Black: attach to black/yellow wire on the immobilizer antennea
Next splice the black white/wire on the immobilizer antennea and:
black/white: attach black/white wire on the 555B on the wire leading to the immobilzer unit
white: Attach the white wire on the 555B to the black/white wire on immobilizer antennae closest to the ignition switch
red: attach to constant 12 volt
Blue: run to status output of your remote starter.
Picture 21: This is a picture of the 555B deep inside the dash. This is where your spare key goes and is safely locked inside.
Picture 22: BAM! There you go. The car is started without a key in the ignition. Now put everything back together.
Please see next post for further notes
I did not connect two wires. The trunk pin wire and the flashing lights wire because I did not have time. I will, however, next time when I connect the DEI 530T (window roll up/down module). These are the sources that I used which were very helpful:
I finished the job in about 12 hours over 3 days, mainly because I was testing the wires to make sure they were the wires I wanted. The project is doable for any average joe that has patience and wants to ensure that a good job is done on their cars.
If you have any questions please feel free to post or PM. I will reply as soon as I can. Good luck with your project and stayed tuned for additional DIYs.
Moved to DIY, and thanks, nice! :type
Nice job man, I use 12volt alot also.
Thanks for this great DIY. I have a question for you:
My wife has a 1997 318i, with an automatic transmission (she got it this past April). I'm interested in putting in a remote start (not the alarm, etc.) as we live in Chicago and it's cold in winter. Do you know if I can put in just the remote starter? Would this make the job easier? Can I use any remote start kit, or does it have to be a specific one?
Any thoughts would be helpful.
I'm pretty handy, so I'm hoping that I will be able to make it happen - with the help of those who have done it before...
Thanks in advance.
Sorry for the extremely late reply. Hopefully by now you have grown impatient and decided to tackle your project. In case you haven't here's the scope:
Stand alone remote starters are avaliable from the manufacturer (for most cars) and aftermarket. Directed Electronics (DEI) has many of these systems that simply give you the remote start option. Of course there are many otions avaliable like two way remotes, automatic timers, various ranges, etc (I would go with a DEI remote start as I have found they are pretty simple to install as compared to other alarms such as Audiovox).
The install would be a bit easier since you would have to stay on one side of the vehicle (drivers side under the dash at least for e46) except if you wanted to connect the hood pin shut-off switch. Then you would have to go into the engine compartment or the car's computer. I don't know what type of unit you are looking for, but I have read in various treads that there are certain harness avaliable for certain alarms, but I don't know if this applies to remote starters as well. If you were looking at a unit that does not plug into a factory harness, then you would have tap into (not splice or cut) 5-8 wires for the remote starter then cut or spice (not tap into) into 4 more wires to get the remote starter running. Since your car is 95 or newer, you would have to use a bypass module (DEI 555B, DEI 555U, or equivalent) and have an extra key to place inside the module so the immobilizer system allows the car to start. This would require the use of accessory channels in your module such as the "ground during crank" wire. It sound pretty complicated but it actually isn't if you have any questions, and I mean any questions (you or any person reading this thread) email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I check this thing religiously. I am alway happy to help someone out.
are those pictures still alive? for some reason I can't see them:dunno
I have no work filter or anything like that
Haven't checked this thread in a while. I cannot see the pictures either. Can the administrators fix this. I have gotten numerous emails asking me to repost these pics but my wife washed my flash drive where I had them and it no longer works. Hopefully we can get this fixed.
UPDATE: I emailed the administrator to see if they can fix this problem. I am crossing my fingers cause I'm sure alot of people can use this.
Here is an updated link:
This is the diagram that I used.
Just bought a 'spy two way remote start' from ebay however I notice on here that the viper requires a immobiliser bypass which this after market alarm doesnt provide.
Is there another way to bypass the immobiliser ie hide the transponder chip from a spare key under the dash or is that too simple?
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:10 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright © 2005-2013 UnitedBimmer.com