Urgent - NO break lights ! - United Bimmer Community

**davidrc** · 12-02-2007, 08:56 AM

Hi all,
Listen to this: A few days ago all my break lights went dead. All three (two tail lights and the one at the back window).
E36 ; 318i ; 1998

I have checked the fuse - OK
I have checked voltage on the two tail break lights (while someone press the break peddle) - ~ 11.3V
Replaced all 3 bulbs

NO BREAK LIGHT!!!

Any idea??
It's urgent!

**HyeTide** · 12-02-2007, 10:56 AM

Have you checked brake light switch at the brake pedal?

**davidrc** · 12-02-2007, 12:14 PM

Since I have verified that there is voltage on the bulb socket when the break peddle is being pressed, and since I can take the gear knob out of its parking position when the break peddle is pressed, I would think that the switch is ok.

The previous owner of my bimmer, took the negative pole for the break lights from the car body (and bypassed the original). Maybe its a ground problem?

**Numark318i** · 12-02-2007, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidrc

Since I have verified that there is voltage on the bulb socket when the break peddle is being pressed, and since I can take the gear knob out of its parking position when the break peddle is pressed, I would think that the switch is ok.

The previous owner of my bimmer, took the negative pole for the break lights from the car body (and bypassed the original). Maybe its a ground problem?

on our volvo the brake light switch and the brake pedal sensor(to take it out of gear) were two seperate devices. I think to take it out of gear theres a vacuum switch of some sort.

so its prolly the brake light switch at the pedal

**davidrc** · 12-02-2007, 12:36 PM

It can NOT be the switch, since as I said, when the break pedal is pressed, there is a ~11v on the bulb socket. Even though, it does not lit (and I have placed 3 new bulbs.

In addition, on the 318i, '98, when you disconnect the wire from the switch, you can not take the shift knob out of parking so I guess the switch is used for both operations (break lights and parking release)

**Mila318is** · 12-02-2007, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidrc

Since I have verified that there is voltage on the bulb socket when the break peddle is being pressed, and since I can take the gear knob out of its parking position when the break peddle is pressed, I would think that the switch is ok.

The brake light switch tells when the peddle is being pressed that's what make's light's come on and go off, i've just had mine replaced as the brake lights were staying on constantly.

I'd say it was the same on your's but the other way round, if that makes sense.

witeshark · 12-02-2007, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidrc

Since I have verified that there is voltage on the bulb socket when the break peddle is being pressed, and since I can take the gear knob out of its parking position when the break peddle is pressed, I would think that the switch is ok.

The previous owner of my bimmer, took the negative pole for the break lights from the car body (and bypassed the original). Maybe its a ground problem?

I think that's exactly right.

**Numark318i** · 12-02-2007, 12:56 PM

nice job sir

Quote:

Originally Posted by witeshark

I think that's exactly right.

**davidrc** · 12-02-2007, 01:02 PM

Guys listen,

When a good working switch is being pressed, it transfers electricity (=voltage, current....).

I'm telling you that when the break peddle is being pressed, I DO HAVE CURRENT AND a voltage reading in the break bulb socket ===== the switch works!!

I don't know, maybe it's a grounding problem, or something else, but it can not be the switch (though everybody loves this easy and straight forward solution)

**Numark318i** · 12-02-2007, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidrc

Guys listen,

When a good working switch is being pressed, it transfers electricity (=voltage, current....).

I'm telling you that when the break peddle is being pressed, I DO HAVE CURRENT AND a voltage reading in the break bulb socket ===== the switch works!!

I don't know, maybe it's a grounding problem, or something else, but it can not be the switch (though everybody loves this easy and straight forward solution)

lol

what are we talking about again..shit?

k seriously..ground it somewhere else?

also are you sure you need that much voltage at the socket? You might need more, which is why the bulb is lighting up?
Make sure the fuse is of the correct voltage?
If not check the line for any cracks or breaks? If it not fully grounded out it may only transfer some of the voltage?

witeshark · 12-02-2007, 01:34 PM

That's why I think it is a bad ground

**Numark318i** · 12-02-2007, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by witeshark

That's why I think it is a bad ground

NO

you know its the muffler bearing. you just dont want people to know about the adverse effects of a bad muffler bearing.

**Dudesky** · 12-02-2007, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidrc

Guys listen,

When a good working switch is being pressed, it transfers electricity (=voltage, current....).

I'm telling you that when the break peddle is being pressed, I DO HAVE CURRENT AND a voltage reading in the break bulb socket ===== the switch works!!

I don't know, maybe it's a grounding problem, or something else, but it can not be the switch (though everybody loves this easy and straight forward solution)

Okay, first of all it's PEDAL not peddle. Secondly, it's BRAKE, not break. Thirdly, what does your OBC tell you? Does it say "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT", or does it say "BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE"?

johnnybayonne · 12-02-2007, 06:48 PM

Well you have about 12 volts of positive current at your source, the brake light assembly! What you don't have is a ground!!!! Because when you checked with your voltmeter you had current because you made your own ground!!! Find the ground wire, that's your problem!!!!

**Numark318i** · 12-02-2007, 07:30 PM

dam....we are all so pissed. lets take it down a notch or two.