What to change/add first as far as mods go? - United Bimmer Community

**nightdevils** · 02-14-2006, 04:52 PM

This topic is one of those topics that might belong to one of the other forums, so please bear with me. So I have been thinking about in what order to go about modding my car (not particularly anytime soon, but I would like to know *plus* trying to get my posts to be > 50 .. there you go komodo

j/k ). Here are the things being considered:

1) performance chip from conforti
2) conforti cold air intake
3) better exhaust (performance not sound)
4) change suspension & lower the car a bit & stability bars
5) brake rotors & pads
6) supercharger/turbocharger
7) tires
8) what else can I do?

yes I am mostly focused on state-legal performance mods but I dont want to change my car into a race car...well at least not yet anyways.

Thanks!

Shawn

**DEATH2000** · 02-14-2006, 06:27 PM

Ok well first this might be the wrong forum to post in but w/e.

First start off with an intake. Then underdrive pullies if u can find em. Then a chip is usally a good idea. Exhaust doesnt do really anything unless u have other mods. After that i say lower the car, and of course get some rims if u have stockers.

Storamin · 02-14-2006, 06:41 PM

1) driver
2) suspension
3) brakes

First thing is the driver. I almost guarantee 95% of the board members are outdriven by their car.

**nightdevils** · 02-14-2006, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Storamin

1) driver
2) suspension
3) brakes

First thing is the driver. I almost guarantee 95% of the board members are outdriven by their car.

How exactly do you go prepare the driver? One thing on my list, I guess couple, are 1) learn to shift at the right desired rpm w/ the lag in steptronic transmission. 2) complete a driver school over summer. Any other ideas?

**nightdevils** · 02-14-2006, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEATH2000

Ok well first this might be the wrong forum to post in but w/e.

First start off with an intake. Then underdrive pullies if u can find em. Then a chip is usally a good idea. Exhaust doesnt do really anything unless u have other mods. After that i say lower the car, and of course get some rims if u have stockers.

Do they brake rotors and callipers get changed with suspension etc? Or should I do them before anything else (sorta makes sense to me).

**DEATH2000** · 02-14-2006, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghost

Do they brake rotors and callipers get changed with suspension etc? Or should I do them before anything else (sorta makes sense to me).

Depends on ur prefrence. I need to replace my rotors kinda bad, and i need a new front suspension, as well as new tires. But for me, it depends on how bad im gonna need each one, and my financial status. Like my brakes are pretty much my number one priority, like whats the point in having alot of power if u cant even stop? And im gonna need new tires cause mine are also balding and one has a slow leak. So since my suspension can hold out for a while longer (unless i track it lol) im gonna do a brake upgrade and get some new tires. Then do suspension. Usually doing brakes and suspension at the same time will save on labour costs if ur not doing it urself. IMO id probably do brakes first, then do suspension. But thats me and based on my current needs.

**DEATH2000** · 02-14-2006, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghost

How exactly do you go prepare the driver? One thing on my list, I guess couple, are 1) learn to shift at the right desired rpm w/ the lag in steptronic transmission. 2) complete a driver school over summer. Any other ideas?

Driving schools...... they will teach u so much. Best bet for now. Screw the steptronic, after all its still a manaul. Learn to harness to power u have on tap already. Sometimes the BMW Car Club of America puts on a good one or knows of some good ones in ur area. An exaple is the Southern Alberta BMW club is putting on a winter driving school in a week, it teaches u how to control under/oversteer and proper winter driving techniques like controlled braking and stuff. And you get to learn in ur own car.

**nightdevils** · 02-14-2006, 08:49 PM

Sweet, yeah I was thinking along the same lines for the brakes. Its sort of expensive for the rotors, but its a one time cost (till they wear out hopefully wont happen too fast). And yeah, driving school in my opinion is kinda like the motorcycle safety course, you can live with out, but those who have taken the class, swear by it

Of course, for all teh mods, can't wait to start earning real money this summer

**DEATH2000** · 02-14-2006, 09:02 PM

^^ yea rotors are expensive. I have to replace mine and im still unsure wether just to go with OEM rotors or get soemthing like gas slotted. And then i have to replace my pads as well, so im also gonna use this to upgrade to SS lines and Superblue brake fluid. And all of this adds up, so i need to start saving lol.

**nightdevils** · 02-14-2006, 09:51 PM

I wish the world of fast and the furious were true at times

tons of money just appears from nowhere, and oh yes, who can forget, hot chicks everywhere

I thought oem rotors weren't really helpful in constant slowdown from high speeds? drilled or slated (i might have the terms wrong) might be better? and what's the big difference with the stainless steel lines compared to normal rubber (i guess) ones.

**DEATH2000** · 02-14-2006, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghost

I thought oem rotors weren't really helpful in constant slowdown from high speeds? drilled or slated (i might have the terms wrong) might be better? and what's the big difference with the stainless steel lines compared to normal rubber (i guess) ones.

As i undertsand it the rubber lines can expand slightly under heavy breaking pressure which i guess meand u wouldnt get optimal stooping power. The SS lines wouldnt expand under pressure so ud get optimal braking force.

As for the whole debate wether drilled/sloted or OEM style blanks are better, i still dont understand all of it. Theres alot of info behind it. So far from what i understand OEM style blanks provide the best stopping power. But for more info bout it heres a link to a thread debating it: http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/t...t=brake+rotors

**nightdevils** · 02-14-2006, 10:27 PM

Wow, see this is why I like hanging out here

and the reason why I am up to 35 posts in 2-3 days

So cool, ss lines are def. a help, and if you have money go with "vented" rotors, def. not cros-drilled. And get good pads. What about the callipers/pistons? stock ones good for those or should they be changed?

**DEATH2000** · 02-14-2006, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghost

Wow, see this is why I like hanging out here

and the reason why I am up to 35 posts in 2-3 days

So cool, ss lines are def. a help, and if you have money go with "vented" rotors, def. not cros-drilled. And get good pads. What about the callipers/pistons? stock ones good for those or should they be changed?

Stock calipers are fine unless ur getting a BBK (big brake kit). Personally im going with OEM blanks, which will work fine with prformance pads so its all good. Slotted rotors are fine, but from what ive read OEM blanks seem to be better plus my limited budget doesnt help with choices much.

**nightdevils** · 02-15-2006, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEATH2000

Stock calipers are fine unless ur getting a BBK (big brake kit). Personally im going with OEM blanks, which will work fine with prformance pads so its all good. Slotted rotors are fine, but from what ive read OEM blanks seem to be better plus my limited budget doesnt help with choices much.

i concur, I am drawing up similar plans for myself as well. here's the order so far:

1) better race quality brake pads w/ stock calipers and stock rotors (same as oem blank?)
2) cold air intake
3) underdrive pulleys

what's the purpose of this and what is it
4) chip
5) suspension, sway bars, rims, lower car, 2 sets of tires (performance and snow)

somewhere along there, go to driving school

my bro said he will give this as a b'day gift

this might be plenty for the 530i automatic, if I don't end up buying a manual m3 at this point, I will proceed on to putting a supercharger and bbk on this but not sure if its advantageous to do so on the automatic model. what are your thoughts and opinions?

**///M Power** · 02-15-2006, 01:53 AM

1) Sell car and buy one with standard tranny
2) driving school
3) Suspension

4) Real power mods like forced induction or other such ridiculously priced N/A add ons
-or-
4) if you really want it more for show or just havign new small mods here adn there then do intake, headers, exhaust, tuning, pizza.

Storamin · 02-15-2006, 09:42 AM

OEM Blanks with Hawk HPS or Axxis Ultimate Pads. SS lines and ATE Superblue brake fluid.

You'd be surprised how well your stock 530i will handle on the track. I wouldn't bother upgrading the suspension yet. When you upgrade parts, they tend to hide driver error. Learn on stock suspension and then upgrade when you reach the limit. You'll know when you're reaching the limit -- you instructors will let you know.

**nightdevils** · 02-15-2006, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Storamin

OEM Blanks with Hawk HPS or Axxis Ultimate Pads. SS lines and ATE Superblue brake fluid.

You'd be surprised how well your stock 530i will handle on the track. I wouldn't bother upgrading the suspension yet. When you upgrade parts, they tend to hide driver error. Learn on stock suspension and then upgrade when you reach the limit. You'll know when you're reaching the limit -- you instructors will let you know.

sweet, thats actually a good start w/o breaking the bank. Looking around seems like the Hawk HPS pads are better rated for street than the Axxis Ultimate. And your note on learning to drive on stock suspension, reminds me of lessons in the InitialD anime series, which if you havent watched it yet, you definitely should

**nightdevils** · 02-15-2006, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///M Power

1) Sell car and buy one with standard tranny
2) driving school
3) Suspension

4) Real power mods like forced induction or other such ridiculously priced N/A add ons
-or-
4) if you really want it more for show or just havign new small mods here adn there then do intake, headers, exhaust, tuning, pizza.

///M Power lot of people have said its actually a good idea to start with a steptronic transmission on track b/c that way you get to focus more on driving properly than the other quirks of manuals. And a lot of folks do their steptronics out to the track, and have been doing it for quite a while as well.

Granted, I would love to have a manual as well, but just bought this car, and don't think it would be appropriate to trade it in for a different one without first fully understanding the potential of the car. 234HP is quite a bit for a novice like me, and if I can master the shifting, i think there's quite a bit power hidden behind this monstrocity.

**dinan540** · 02-15-2006, 10:53 AM

OEM rotors are just as good or better than cross drilled or slotted. The cross drilled and slotted rotors look more esthetic. There also are some opinions that the cross drilled and slotted rotors wear out your pads faster. I have cross drilled rotors on my car and I don't notice a difference in performance.

As for the order of mods, it depends on your financial situation. You have an E39 and they are more expensive to mod as compared to the E36 and E46. I love all of the Dinan mods, but they are spendy and well proven with great research and development.

Your stock suspension should be fine unless you decide to track your car. I am slowly finding out that the E39 is a great sport sedan, but not a great track car because of the size and weight of it.