boosting basics?

[black328is]

ok I'm a newb to bmw's and to boost, and now I'm trying to put the 2 together. ok, first off, what will I have to do to the computer to tune it? I'm sure to a degree the MAF will compensate for the increased airflow, but would it be safe to run it on the boosted side, or should it go on the inlet side? also I know that timing will be affected by adding boost, so what would be done to compensate? is there a chip/programmer available to make the necessary changes? are there any significant changes in fue mileage? will it mess with any of the factory electronics and metering systems? I already have to pull the head to regring and resurface the valves, so what, if any, internal mods should I need to do? should I go with a different type of head gasket? higher strength head bolts? also how much boost will the stock internals handle? or, how much spray could I safely run without boost? what would I need for that? if anyone knows any of this it would be great, or a link to where i can find this stuff it would be much appreciated. just trying to decide my best option at this point. I mean, I already have to put money and work into it, might as well do something nice with it while I'm at it

[witeshark]

IMO Beefing up the crank and main bearings would be a good start

[black328is]

yeah I considered that, too, but I don't want to tear into it too much. I mean, I'm not looking for crazy power. looking to run maybe 8-10 psi. whatever I can run with the stock internals. just looking to do top end stuff

[Numark318i]

not sure how its going to do with 8-10 psi stock, but as far as ECU stuff goes if its OBD 2(which it is) i believe you can take it to a dyno type place and they can remap it for you. as far as i know though its costly.

[94bmw325i]

a few people on bimmerforums can retune a factory ecu if you send it to them

[RSF5]

Your going to have to lower compression in the engine. This can be done with either dished pistons or a thicker head gaskets (pistons are better but more expensive). For high boost your going to need stronger rods, pistons and bearings, and strong head bolts. It would be good to get the block and head machined by a shop to make sure they are in good working order. To tune it the best but pricey route to go would be a stand alone system, its more expensive than a piggy back but you honestly don't want to skimp on this. Do you want to boost with a turbo or super charger?

Go to Bimmerforums.com and just read, read everything you can find. (Don't post a thread asking questions you could find the answers to by searching, they will get pissed)

[Numark318i]

Originally Posted by RSF5

(Don't post a thread asking questions you could find the answers to by searching, they will get pissed)

C1apton syndrome.

ftw

[matimus]

Originally Posted by black328is

ok I'm a newb to bmw's and to boost, and now I'm trying to put the 2 together. ok, first off, what will I have to do to the computer to tune it? I'm sure to a degree the MAF will compensate for the increased airflow, but would it be safe to run it on the boosted side, or should it go on the inlet side? also I know that timing will be affected by adding boost, so what would be done to compensate? is there a chip/programmer available to make the necessary changes? are there any significant changes in fue mileage? will it mess with any of the factory electronics and metering systems? I already have to pull the head to regring and resurface the valves, so what, if any, internal mods should I need to do? should I go with a different type of head gasket? higher strength head bolts? also how much boost will the stock internals handle? or, how much spray could I safely run without boost? what would I need for that? if anyone knows any of this it would be great, or a link to where i can find this stuff it would be much appreciated. just trying to decide my best option at this point. I mean, I already have to put money and work into it, might as well do something nice with it while I'm at it

#1- i wouldnt run any boost without proper ecu correction
#2- you can place the MAF on either the intake or charge pipe but will requir different piping.
#3-Nick G on bimmerforums can do OBDII tunes and he's one of the best.
#4if you use the stock ecu with a tune you will retain all of your functioning electgronics
#5-fuel milage? if you boosting then what are you worried about fuel milage for?
#6- you dont "need" to regrind you valves, or atleast you shouldnt.
#7-stock internals have been proven to hold up to 704hp at which you will bend a rod.

heres what you should do:
#1- get a .140" MLS gasket from http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bi...pl?item_id=562
#2- get some ARP head studs from the same place http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bi...pl?item_id=231
#3-Follow these directions on the head gasket and studs installation http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?p=4223788
besides all of the other Fuel, cooling, vacume, exhuast,etc,etc stuff.
thats all the internal stuff you NEED to do to boost 15-17 psi safely with a good tune.
Which can produce 500whp.

For you, assuming you knowledge of turbo systems . I'd strongly consider a technic tuning kit.
even if you start with stage 1 you can upgrade later if you want.
trust me! Its a complete kit and you CAN NOT beat the price by doing it your self!!
http://www.techniquetuning.com/e36obd2turbo.htm


GET IT! it will save you LOTS of headaches and down time.

good luck

thanks,
///MAT

Originally Posted by witeshark

IMO Beefing up the crank and main bearings would be a good start

No need to "beef up" the crank or bearings unless they are severely worn.
Like i said. the stock 2.8L with only a .140" headgasket and ARP head studs has proven 704hp.
Stock cams, stock piston, stock rods, stock everything!
the rods were the first to fail and not untill 704hp.

[matimus]

Originally Posted by RSF5

Your going to have to lower compression in the engine. This can be done with either dished pistons or a thicker head gaskets (pistons are better but more expensive). For high boost your going to need stronger rods, pistons and bearings, and strong head bolts. It would be good to get the block and head machined by a shop to make sure they are in good working order. To tune it the best but pricey route to go would be a stand alone system, its more expensive than a piggy back but you honestly don't want to skimp on this. Do you want to boost with a turbo or super charger?

I agree Pistons are the best way but on a budget and low boost(10-17psi) a headgasket is more than enough.
Standalones are great but expensive to buy and to tune, Piggy backs are not great IMO ,I dont like them at all. the stock ECU tune IMO is the best option for you. You tune it once and leave it, Then you dont have to worry about voltage fluctuations ,etc. and you retain all the stock functions.

thanks, i forgot to mention the importance of getting the head and block resurfaced when using a MLS gasket. VERY important!
Go turbo, that way in 3 months when you get used to the power you can still upgrade


thanks,
///MAT
the cheapest way is to remove everything thats not necesarry to drive. lighter = faster

[nick_318is]

You might want to look into some basic mods before going straight for turboing, there are plently of options out there to improve upon the e36 and since you said you dont want to do anything too crazy taht might meet your needs and be cheaper but it might not just making a suggestion.

[black328is]

thanks for the input guys. the only reason I said I needed to grind the valves was because it appears mine are bent fromt he previous owner driving it with a busted water pump and severely overheating it. I will be having the head surfaced too because I know that aluminum heads are proned to warping after being heated. and if I do run boost it will be a turbo setup. I was looking on ebay and they have the exhaust manifold to bolt a t3/t4 straight to for like $180 and then I found a generic turbo kit with all plumbing, intercooler, turbo, BOV, hardware ect for $700. would this be a good way to go? then I would just need the head gaskets, head bolts (which I have to get new ones of anyways) and ecu remap. like I said I'm not looking for ridiculous power (althought I definately wouldn't complain about getting more than expected), but I mostly just want to have something different. I hate driving a stock vehicle. I always have to have something that makes people ask questions lol. and I know what you guys mean about the people bitching about searching, s10forum is the same way. I was actually a little reluctant to post this here just for that reason.

edit: wow, was just looking over that technique tuning site and was super impressed with those numbers(except for the ones with a $ in front of it ). I would be beyond pleased with 348 to the wheels. I also noticed where they mentioned upgrading the fuel pump at higher boost. I'm not looking to get into all that, so I'm thinking 8 psi would be enough for me. but even at that it looks like I'm buying bigger injectors. while I'm at it I will price out some N/A performance parts and see how they compare, but I'm sure boost is the cheapest way to significant gains. maybe I'll sell my bagged truck and focus on this thing for awhile. I think it will be a fun project

[94bmw325i]

you'd be suprised at doing a few mods like under drive pulleys, new exhaust, headers, m50 manifold, s52 cams, tune for all of those mods, lightweight flywheel, clutch, and a short shifter.

[RSF5]

^^^ all those mods with a little boost would be nice.

[B_w.]

honestly, sounnds like a super charger is for you if you are askign all these questions and from what you want. it is simpler and cheaper. vfe kit for $4500 should put you somewhere between 260-300whp.

dont buy ebay turbo shit as it is simply that...shit!

if you do decide to go turbo the best thing you can do is read read and read...i researched for a year b4 i even started buying parts...know exactly what you are getting into and budget twice what you expect to pay. FI, especially turbo charging is expensive! unless you know how to do all your own work, welding and fabrication, ect, minus any needed machine work, get parts at discounts through hookups, expect to pay 6-8k at least. if you can get a tt kit. i wish i did but they dont have kits available for the 328 custom will not end up being cheaper unless you know exaclty what you are doing.

if you are set on going fi start saving and dont bother doing na mods as you will end up replacing most of them with the FI equipment.

[black328is]

alright, thanks for the suggestions. and actually, I do alot of welding fabricating ect, and have engine building experience. just have never dealt with a boosted application. I do infact have a connection at an engine shop I used to work for so I can get all parts at cost, and my dad is a part time machinist with all his own equipment. but I have decided for now to keep it stock until I figure out exactly what I'm going to do as far as my show truck and this car goes. I can only afford to insure one, and I hate trailer queens. but I dunno we'll see.