2003 ZHP Camber - United Bimmer Community

**Dathaeus** · 11-29-2012, 12:27 AM

Isnt the camber supposed to be adjusted to -0.5 on the 2003 ZHP? I just got new tires and they did an analysis on the wheels/axle, and it shows in the image here.

Are these numbers within acceptable tolerance? I assume more neg camber means it will help hold turns better but it will create more uneven tire wear on straight line driving?

DEATH2000 · 12-02-2012, 01:06 AM

Everything looks good to me, except that right rear. You want a little bit of negative camber and toe for better tracking. With 0.5 degree camber tire wear is quite negligable and you shouldnt notice an issue. I would be looking into why your rear is so far off.

**Dathaeus** · 12-02-2012, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEATH2000

Everything looks good to me, except that right rear. You want a little bit of negative camber and toe for better tracking. With 0.5 degree camber tire wear is quite negligable and you shouldnt notice an issue. I would be looking into why your rear is so far off.

Well the guy who sold it to me gave me some details on the car but I always did feel like he was holding out on me, like the side view mirrors no working... after the fact he said it worked when he had it, so ya, whatever.

Is that camber something Firestone can take care of and even out during the alignment?

Thanks man.

DEATH2000 · 12-02-2012, 01:52 AM

When buying a car make sure EVERYTHING works. Someone telling me that "oh it worked yesterday" is trying to get rid of the car without you noticeing. Trust me, as i may have done this before on a beater POS $600 car i was trying to get rid of. However if your dropping 12 or 15 thousand on a car I want everything to work properly. Thats what im paying for.

After owning a $500 beater, I didnt care that some stuff was broken, as i was buying a $500 car cause i was desperate, not picky. On my BMW, or any BMW I would ensure that it works prior to purchase personally,

With that much camber its hard to say. You definitley want to check for damage to the control arm. They should be able to bring it closer in but if theirs damage it wont ever meet spec.

**Dathaeus** · 12-02-2012, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEATH2000

When buying a car make sure EVERYTHING works. Someone telling me that "oh it worked yesterday" is trying to get rid of the car without you noticeing. Trust me, as i may have done this before on a beater POS $600 car i was trying to get rid of. However if your dropping 12 or 15 thousand on a car I want everything to work properly. Thats what im paying for.

After owning a $500 beater, I didnt care that some stuff was broken, as i was buying a $500 car cause i was desperate, not picky. On my BMW, or any BMW I would ensure that it works prior to purchase personally,

With that much camber its hard to say. You definitley want to check for damage to the control arm. They should be able to bring it closer in but if theirs damage it wont ever meet spec.

Ya I know the deal, but it was such a good deal, and he was a salesman there at Shumacher and this was his personal car, so I figured he didnt wanna totally rip me off and have me come there at his workplace and raise a fuss. And I know I probably should have shelled out for the $350 PPI at the Braman across the street, which he was more than willing to take to as long as I paid, but I didnt because of the surface inspection it got from Braman on the last oil change, which stated it needed new belts, quoted like $600.

But anyways, for $7k for a 2003 ZHP, I cant really complain... I can put in another $2-3k and be happy still. If I felt any unusual sounds or pulling while driving it, I would have gotten the PPI but it felt smooth as silk and still does, after my new tires, and need to go for an alignment. I was looking at the same ZHP for higher prices in TX, North Florida and all over, so I think I am ok. Yes time will tell, but nothing to say I got a bad deal right now.

And honestly, the mirrors are ok, I can probably just manually adjust them and never touch them again.... I dont have anyone else who will drive this.

DEATH2000 · 12-02-2012, 02:10 AM

Have your tie rods and ball joints checked just in case. A pull is caused by worn tie rods. Why pay for an alignment twice.

$7k, seem like a pretty good deal. An average 2004 E46 goes for $10,000 here in Alberta, with a "ZHP" going for up to $16,000.

**Dathaeus** · 12-02-2012, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEATH2000

Have your tie rods and ball joints checked just in case. A pull is caused by worn tie rods. Why pay for an alignment twice.

$7k, seem like a pretty good deal. An average 2004 E46 goes for $10,000 here in Alberta, with a "ZHP" going for up to $16,000.

I have a lifetime free alignment at Firestone, prob one of the best purchases ever made. They will be SURE to tell me whats wrong with my car, at least around the wheels, since they bank on making money by getting more stuff fixed.

Ya, most 2003 ZHP's here were going about $10-12k, thats why I didnt hesitate on this... and the sweetest part? The guy is 15 miles from me, really a no brainer.