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E36 General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.

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Old 11-29-2006, 12:06 AM   #1
mincemeat
 
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Name: mincemeat
Title: United Newb
Status: Offline
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Auckland, New Zealand (next to Australia)
Rate My Car: 222 / 340
Your Ride: E36 318i
Question (Hopefully) Basic electrical question

As soon as I turn the key to the accessories position, the system voltage plummets and within a minute there would not be enough charge to crank the car.

Visually inspected the battery and I realise it's well and truly dead - a slight bulge on its side.

So, tomorrow I'm doing the obvious and fitting a new battery...

However, what concerns me a little is that my car happen to have a Valeo altenator... what would the symptom of a faulty voltage regulator be? Would it cause a big enough spike to frag a battery like that?

Anyway here are some reference Test #9 voltages:
Running and idle: low 13's
Running and above 1500rpm: 13.7v - 14.1v
Engine off: Don't let it fall below 11v

Any comments would be appreciated, cheers
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:10 AM   #2
witeshark
 
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Name: witeshark
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Location: Miami FL
Rate My Car: 84 / 340
Your Ride: 89 325i 5 speed
More like just an old battery
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:17 AM   #3
mullethunter3
 
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Name: mullethunter3
Title: Upgraded Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Saint Louis / RollaMO
Rate My Car: 162 / 340
Your Ride: 318is, Suzuki GS500
If that doesn't work, check the amp draw when the car is off. My car did that for a while and it killed a couple batteries. I fixed the problem though.
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:57 AM   #4
c1apton
 
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Name: c1apton
Title: Upgraded Member
Status: Offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Pompano Beach,Fl /Edina,Mn
Rate My Car: 134 / 340
Your Ride: 93 E34
Your alternator ratings are good, like "whitey" said it's just an old battery.
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Old 11-30-2006, 04:41 AM   #5
mincemeat
 
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Name: mincemeat
Title: United Newb
Status: Offline
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Auckland, New Zealand (next to Australia)
Rate My Car: 222 / 340
Your Ride: E36 318i
Thanks everyone for theiy comments.

The new battery went in and the guy used an electronic tester to check for drainage, which came out okay.

Now the funny thing was the age of the old battery. They deciphered the manufacturer's build code on it and concluded that it is barely over two years old and just out of warranty... strange.

Maybe I'm just very unlucky with that particular instance of a battery, or ya'll can start taking bets when this one blows up and why
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Old 11-30-2006, 05:23 AM   #6
c1apton
 
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Name: c1apton
Title: Upgraded Member
Status: Offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Pompano Beach,Fl /Edina,Mn
Rate My Car: 134 / 340
Your Ride: 93 E34
There's alot of variables in battery choices. Some places sell you "what fits" (physical size) other places sell what's made to operate in specific vehicles. You might have had a lower end version. A good rule of thumb - if you can afford it, buy the highest # of cold cranking amps. Don't skimp on battery quality for a couple of $$$ difference. Too many folks buy the least expensive and expect long life. The key here is to SHOP - $$$ vs CCAs.
IE: I shopped for my E34 and found one at Autozone that was 1000 CCAs and was only 69.95 where the "Die Hard" top end was $109 for 600 CCAs - so shop for your best value & buy from reputable sources.
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:48 AM   #7
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^^ Yep, always look for quality overall if you want long life.
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