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E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
Yes, that's the part number. However, you can't use a standard puller to do the job because the jaws will keep slipping off, and you can't "push" the bushing out from its center. Bimmerworld.com sells the trailing arm bushing tool for $99. Or you can use 2" US NPT pipe caps and 7/16" threaded rod, with some nuts. That is, if you can get that in Europe. Maybe you can try transferring the measurements to metric and find some equivalent hardware.
It's not a left/right issue, they are identical. I'm assuming the different part #'s have to do with the model and build date. I would call your seller and they should be able to tell you which to get.
realoem's depiction is innacurate. I believe what they're actually showing is an E30 or 318ti bushing. For the US spec E36, there is only 1 part number, which is the 2nd one on realoem's list (33-32-6-770-786). The other part number may be what it's referred to in other countries, but it should be the same exact part. There shouldn't be a difference, but don't quote me on this- I'm not sure what the story is with that other number. As I mentioned, whoever you buy this from should be able to tell you which is correct.
If anyone else out there knows more about this, please help us out
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Your Ride: 1998 320 Cabrio
I've been tryuing to find a puller this morning with no success. Wherever I went they either want to charge me an arm and a leg or they couldn't help me.
Is it easy to remove the whole trailing arm and take it to a machine shop who has a hydraulic press?
Ehh, I wouldn't do that; then you'd have to mess with the output shafts. Read this DIY, and see if you can fashion a tool similar to what this guy did:
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I cut the bushings out with a saw\drill, and then air hammered them out. The metal that surrounds the bushing is aluminum and comparitively thin, so it melts like butter with an air hammer whacking away at it.
I built the 2" pipe endcap press, but GET A SEROUS BOLT/THREAD or it will also melt like butter when you start REALLY cranking it down - and you'll have to. A 4 foot secton of allthread from home depot is too weak, I wound up finding one my buddy's father's bolts from one of his old corvettes and managed to used that.... I think I stretched it a bit......
PLEASE be sure to unhook the brakelines before you drop the RTAB console, and stick the jack under the arm so you can release it slowly so it dosn't rapidly decompress.
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Your Ride: BMW E36 M3 1994 3ltr.
Bushing M3 E36
I have just bought two replacement bushings from the local BMW shop, they are slightly different to the ones in your description as such they don't have a flange on one side as shown in your photo's.
My question is have the bushings been modified, or have I got the wrong ones??
I have just bought two replacement bushings from the local BMW shop, they are slightly different to the ones in your description as such they don't have a flange on one side as shown in your photo's.
My question is have the bushings been modified, or have I got the wrong ones??
Martin
If they look like this photo, then you got the wrong ones. These are front control arm bushings:
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Your Ride: BMW E36 M3 1994 3ltr.
The part number 33326770786 has been superseded by 33321097009 according to the local BMW parts dept.
I will take a photo tonight and post it so you can see the difference. It does not have the flange and the outer shell is in two halves with a gap between each shell of approx. 3mm.
I would assume the new one will be much easier to remove, lets hope it does'nt remove itself whilst I'm driving!!!!