Spark plugs - Page 2 - United Bimmer Community

**Dudesky** · 01-06-2006, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jms

dudesky which are you putting in, and more importantly what did you take out?

Now you all should know me by now . . stock rocks baby

I haven't done anythingyet, but I'm using the OEM Bosch copper dual electrode. Which is what should be in there now.

**jms** · 01-06-2006, 01:35 PM

I'm far more concerned about the car running right than the cost of spark plugs. I guess the best way is to pull one and order whatever came out when the time comes.

**toplessinokc** · 01-06-2006, 02:09 PM

I use plat 4's.
I also use a straw to help vacuum anything from around my plugs before I remove the old ones. using my shop vac, hold the straw between fingers and close opening to increase suction, do not drop straw...

**1fast325i** · 01-08-2006, 01:39 AM

I used Bosch Plat 4s and they worked fantastic! A surprising immediate start the second you turn on your ignition from a cold engine! A very responsive throttle and acceleration like no regular 325 would run. I highly recommend it for 325s. Goes very well with air intake, headers, chip and exhaust!

**Kickdown** · 10-11-2010, 07:19 AM

With the M52B28 motor I found that Bosch F7LDCR cause the car to misfire, whilst the FGR7DQP+ gave better throttle response and fuel economy.

**Manolito** · 10-21-2010, 12:31 AM

Your electrical system does not much care, but the old plugs require higher voltage to fire and tend to flow slightly less current while firing.

Most folks agree that on e36s, it is best to stick to two-electrode plugs rather than four. I like Denso and NGK. If you get Bosch, check the box to make sure they did not come from China or India.

$3 plugs work just as well as $10 plugs for the first 20k miles. After that, the exotic metal plating on the expensive plugs starts to earn its premium price.

**Manolito** · 10-21-2010, 11:22 PM

With regard to the anti-seize, most references say that if the plug threads are nickel-coated (shiny silver) and the head is aluminum, you should not use lubricant on the threads. Lots of folks do anyway. I generally do. It will not interfere with the current flow. Graphite-based anti-seize is conductive.

If you use lube, be careful not to over-tighten the plugs. At a given torque setting, the lube will make the plug pull harder on the threads in the aluminum head. You need only enough torque to crush the washer (which you can feel on a new plug).