Suspension Bushings - United Bimmer Community

**EuroStyle** · 12-17-2005, 10:45 AM

Hey,

So my front lower control arm bushings are shot, and I have decided to replace them w/ 96+ m3 bushings.

I was wondering if I should have the rear control arm bushings and or rear trailing arm bushings done at the same time, or does it really matter?

Thanks in advance
-Matt Thorne

P.S. Dudesky I was hoping you could help out w/ this since you seem to the be e36 guru.

**bitcore** · 12-17-2005, 05:21 PM

Rear control arm bushings only control camber, so I wouldn't worry so much about those as the RTAB's, which control toe. Toe is much more dramatic than caster.
I didn't swap out my RTAB's when I did a full front lower control arm replacement and I can defiantely notice the rear's toe is REALLY crazy.... ESP. when there's 2 people in the back and a passenger in the front along for the ride. When I stomp it in 1st, the rear honkers down and settles, and when it does this, the toe for each whel goes nuts, sometimes in the same direction and I crab around the road a little bit. It's emphasized with the weight and I noticed it last night taking a buncha people to some movies, It's rather unnirving

(BTW my alignment is great, but my bushings are GONE so they don't hold the specs under load like that)

Do the rtabs with shims, Get new front lower control arms, and replace your outter tierods.
Go for the Meyle full metal balljoint control arms, and the offset M3 bushings for some more caster (heavier steering but it gives it the M3's caster without using a camber\caster plate)

You can do all this crap yourself if you have a floor jack and jackstands. All you need then is some metric wrenches, maybe a socket wrench with a pipe on the end for some extra leverage, a ball joint seperator (AKA: pickle fork, autozone, 9 or $19) some time, paitience, and some beer.

Since your a 92, and I'm assuming you have over 100,000 miles on it, I'd replace as much as your funds can allow. Start with that list, then look into replacing shocks or do a suspension upgrade with sport springs\shocks.

In any case, if you havn't done this already, I'd drop the entire subframe, weld in the re-enforcements, and replace any bushing that you see under there.

BTW, fresh LCA bushings will only mask the effects of bad ball joints, so keep that in mind.
I'll list off an ordered list of what I'd replace first if you'd like.

**Dudesky** · 12-17-2005, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroStyle

and I have decided to replace them w/ 96+ m3 bushings.

Then you'll definitely need an alignment.

Quote:

I was wondering if I should have the rear control arm bushings and or rear trailing arm bushings done at the same time, or does it really matter?

No, there's no hard fast rule that they should be replaced at the same time. But if you can afford it, it's your call, especially since yours is an older '92 like mine. You'll have to do it eventually, but there's no rush if you don't notice anything funky going on back there. But I'm willing to bet you'll need the RTAB's before the rear CAB's, in case you're wondering which to get done first.

Quote:

P.S. Dudesky I was hoping you could help out w/ this since you seem to the be e36 guru.

He he, I keep reading this on UB . . . guru I'm not . . . I've just had the misfortune of having to do more repair work than some others here. But thanks

**bitcore** · 12-17-2005, 06:09 PM

If your rear is shot, it's hard to tell if it is REALLY coming from the rear or not. Only around corners when your RATB's are REALLY shot will you be able to really tell if it's your rear toe.
I could tell last night when it was doing the crab dance at a stop light, but I already knew they were torn to bits anyways. They make a big difference, a degree of toe is much more noticeable than you think.

**EuroStyle** · 12-17-2005, 07:48 PM

First, thanks for the help guys, this in great information.

Quote:

I'll list off an ordered list of what I'd replace first if you'd like.

Please do, I would love to hear it. By the way, the only thing that I am sure of right now is that the front LCAB are shot. Everything else is still up in the air. However I wouldn't be surprised if more was broken cuz my car is riding like a Honda.

I am replacing the shocks/struts this summer, so that will come w/ time. I am also installing front and rear k-mac camber kits. So please keep this in mind when making your list.

-Matt

Storamin · 12-18-2005, 08:43 PM

I would stay away from the Meyle control arm. They aren't heat treated... which is very dangerous.

**EuroStyle** · 12-19-2005, 10:13 AM

Well good news and bad news...

Bad News: The front LCAB are shot but they were not causing the shimmy. The problem was from a soft spot in the passenger side rotor.

Good News: I don't have to pay to fix anything now. And this summer will bring new m3 bushings and a Turner break kit. YUMMM

Thanks again for the help guys.

-Matt

**krislou80** · 07-12-2010, 10:46 PM

The Trailing Arm bushings and go bad at times as well. The Lateral Stabilizer Rod bushing and fail less often, but can be a possibility? What I do is start tapping around with a large rubbed mallet. Bushings, arms, springs and the exhaust system to try to isolate the noise.It is also possible the rear differential has some play in it. If you can turn the drive shaft a ¼-turn or more before the wheels start to turn, there is excessive play in the rear differential.