Rear control arm bushings only control camber, so I wouldn't worry so much about those as the RTAB's, which control toe. Toe is much more dramatic than caster.
I didn't swap out my RTAB's when I did a full front lower control arm replacement and I can defiantely notice the rear's toe is REALLY crazy.... ESP. when there's 2 people in the back and a passenger in the front along for the ride. When I stomp it in 1st, the rear honkers down and settles, and when it does this, the toe for each whel goes nuts, sometimes in the same direction and I crab around the road a little bit. It's emphasized with the weight and I noticed it last night taking a buncha people to some movies, It's rather unnirving
(BTW my alignment is great, but my bushings are GONE so they don't hold the specs under load like that)
Do the rtabs with shims, Get new front lower control arms, and replace your outter tierods.
Go for the Meyle full metal balljoint control arms, and the offset M3 bushings for some more caster (heavier steering but it gives it the M3's caster without using a camber\caster plate)
You can do all this crap yourself if you have a floor jack and jackstands. All you need then is some metric wrenches, maybe a socket wrench with a pipe on the end for some extra leverage, a ball joint seperator (AKA: pickle fork, autozone, 9 or $19) some time, paitience, and some beer.
Since your a 92, and I'm assuming you have over 100,000 miles on it, I'd replace as much as your funds can allow. Start with that list, then look into replacing shocks or do a suspension upgrade with sport springs\shocks.
In any case, if you havn't done this already, I'd drop the entire subframe, weld in the re-enforcements, and replace any bushing that you see under there.
BTW, fresh LCA bushings will only mask the effects of bad ball joints, so keep that in mind.
I'll list off an ordered list of what I'd replace first if you'd like.