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E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
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My Car Is Falling Apart... Slowly...
So my car is slowly dying on me... over the summer I had a tensioner belt problem which cost 300 to fix, bc my cold start system also had to be cleaned since my car was stalling when i would start it... luckily my dad picked up that tab for that bill...
but now my winshield washer system is shot... neither sprayer can hit the winshield with the fluid... so i dont know what to do... can i replace the whole system for cheap?
and now on friday my driver side window broke.. not the physical window.. but the whole track system inside the door... i went to put the window down while getting gas and heard a crack... i went to put the window up, and well... only the back end started to move up... i finally got the whole window up (with some help).. i have yet to remove the door panel, since i need my car everyday... so any suggestions?
oh and my head unit is going too... but thats not a big deal
in short my car is falling apart slowly...
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My goal is to race in the Gumball 3000 by the age of 28.
Your track (called a regulator) is probably not broken. There are plastic sliders that hold the regulator to the glass, which is most likely what broke on you. I had to fix mine earlier this year. The plastic sliders are only a few bucks from a dealer's parts counter. But open the door up just to be sure
but now my winshield washer system is shot... neither sprayer can hit the winshield with the fluid... so i dont know what to do... can i replace the whole system for cheap?
oh and my head unit is going too... but thats not a big deal
in short my car is falling apart slowly...
Dudesky addressed the window. As far as the washers - is it just dribbling from the nozzles? You can clean them with a pin. They collect dirt, wax, etc. If that doesn't cure it, the washer pumps are fairly inexpensive. (it's in the bottom of your washer tank)
So my car is slowly dying on me... over the summer I had a tensioner belt problem which cost 300 to fix
$300
Holy crap man, someone really => on that one! When I did my underdrive pulleys, my tensioner snapped on me (just about hit me too) and I had to change it, it was a $75 part....
Umnitza now provides a mechanic to install all parts ordered right in the box! It's their new "Total customer service program" that will eliminate all the haters and keep incompetents from breaking **** and blaming the vendor! When you are all set simply call INS and they will pick him up free of charge.
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^^ will do dudesky...
and rooz... i got more than the tensioner replaced... but yea the guy charged A SHITLOAD for that replacement and cleaning of the cold start system... i needed the car soon so thats why my dad paid bc i needed it for work purposes in a few days..
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Member of "Ran From A Cop And Got Away" Club
My goal is to race in the Gumball 3000 by the age of 28.
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^^ umm during the semester i work at ADP, Automatic Data Processing part-time (15hrs a week) and on the weekends from March till November I referee soccer games (currently I'm in the process of trying to get a license level upgrade, from a 8 to a 7) so pretty much besides school I'm working or sleeping... some partying thrown in too...
with soccer i pull in mad money... esp in the spring when the older high school kids play.. ill average about 25-30 bucks and hour working soccer games.. on an average weekend ill pull in around 200 for two days work.. sat and sunday... but most of my money goes to paying for school
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Member of "Ran From A Cop And Got Away" Club
My goal is to race in the Gumball 3000 by the age of 28.
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Your Ride: 88 325is
Hey projal? You need a good mechanic? I only charge $90 to change oil.
JK bro!
Sounds like all the car needs is a once-over by a good mechanic. Most of the time, they don't charge just top check it out, and you drive away with a list of stuff it needs. Then you post the list here, and we tell you how to fix it yourself, thus saving yourself many many $$$$$.
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^^ yea.. i acutually just found a guy who is a friend of a friend.. who is a BMW certified mechanic and moonlights at a local garage like 30min from me who will look at my car and fix anything for me at cost.. basically ill be there and then go and buy parts that are needed at the parts store that is down the road or he'll get them from the BMW dealer when he goes in the next day and he's only gonna charge me like 20 bucks and hour for labor... or even just like a 30 pack if the job is short.... lol
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Member of "Ran From A Cop And Got Away" Club
My goal is to race in the Gumball 3000 by the age of 28.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEATH2000
^^ Whats the diff between a class 8 and 7? We have diff licencing systems all across Canada.
a grade 8 referee license allows you to work basic travel league games and state cup games...
a grade 7 referee license allows you to work adult amateur games and regional tournaments, high level competition... basically I'll be able, if i pass my assessment, to work more competitive games..
i hope to become an MLS referee, grade 4 and above...
the guys you will see in the upcoming world cup will be Grade 1, Grade 2 or Grade 3. ALL the center referee's will be Grade 1's (the only one's certified to work center international games) the assistant referee's (AR's) and fourth officials will be either grade 2 or 3. most likely, the AR's will be Grade 2 and the 4th will be Grade 3.
When you become a Grade 4 and above, EVERY game you work you are assessed on your performance...
for me though ill need to be assessed once, and pass to move up to a Grade 7, along with pass a running test (run flat out for 2500 meters). if i become a Grade 7, ill need to pass an assessment once a year, score an 85% or above on the yearly re-certification exam, and pass the running test again. also in NJ, every State Cup game that you work, you are assessed too.
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Member of "Ran From A Cop And Got Away" Club
My goal is to race in the Gumball 3000 by the age of 28.