Hold 'em or fold 'em?

[BostonGreen318]

I purchased a 1994 318is with approximately 72K and have been using the car as a daily driver for a little over a year and a half. Along the way, I’ve invested about three thousand dollars in maintenance and repairs and have reached nearly 110,000 miles. The work included a complete tune-up (new ignition coil, wires, plugs, etc.), a new battery, fuel pump, set of Sachs rear shocks, rear brake pads and rotors, and Continental tires. I’ve done some of the work myself while other repairs have been passed along to the local shop. During my last visit, the technician provided the following estimate of all recommended work for the near future. I noticed that they did not include some additional stuff that I’ve had on the back burner -- front brakes and rotors, muffler replacement, an ongoing A/C issue which seems to be twofold (1. buttons on analog climate control unit don’t respond to my touch unless the battery is disconnected and then reconnected; 2. fault reader lists a #55 for compressor), passenger side window motor, and last but not least, a rough idle and occasional stall quandary (probably the idle control valve). My question for all the e36 owners out there is basically this -- after all that’s been invested so far, would you continue with the repairs based on what is mentioned above and listed below? Have you had similar issues with your vehicle (i.e. is this the typical 100K deluge)? Or have I somehow managed to acquire a “lemon?” I’m confident that I can do many of repairs myself and am quite attached to this car. . . any feedback would be much appreciated.

Job01 Front Strut Work $1,314.00
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31 33 1 135 580 Strut Bearing Seat 2.0 Quan
SB112 Strut Bellow Inc. Bump 2.0 Quan
33 52 1 136 283 Strut Dust Sleeve 2.0 Quan
22-044204 Strut Assembly Touring 2.0 Quan
31 33 1 137 932 Strut Dust Sleeve 2.0 Quan
31 33 1 110 196 Strut Dust Sleeve 2.0 Quan
31 33 6 779 613 Strut Mount 2.0 Quan
22-044198 Strut Assembly Touring 2.0 Quan
31 31 1 139 453 Strut Mount Stop Cover 2.0 Quan
__________________________________________________ ________________
The technician, upon courtesy checkover, noted that the front right strut is blown,
the front lower control arm bushings are torn, the front ball joints are worn, and
the tie rods have excessive play and grease leaking from the boots.

__________________________________________________ ________________
Job02 E-36 RTAB`s Replacement $292.00
__________________________________________________ ________________
PFR5 4608 E36/46 RTAB 1.0 Quan
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The vehicles Rear Trailing Arm Bushings are worn and loose at this time. This is
generally due to age/mileage as the stock rubber 1-piece bushing stretches out and
fails. We commonly see this around 60,000 miles +. This will cause ride discomfort
including: vibrations around 50 mph, brake vibrations, as well as accelerated front
inner tire wear.) We replace this bushing with a 2-piece poly-urethane bushing that
generally lasts substantially longer.
E-36 Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Replacement.

__________________________________________________ ________________
Job03 4-Wheel Alignment $100.00
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Adjustment of the vehicles toe, camber/caster (if applicable). Once this job is
complete, we will then perform a test drive to ensure the vehicle is straight.

__________________________________________________ ________________
Job04 E-36 Front Control Arms $618.50
__________________________________________________ ________________
PFF5 301 E30/36 FCAB 1.0 Quan
31 12 6 758 513 Control Arm 1.0 Quan
31 12 6 758 514 Control Arm 1.0 Quan
__________________________________________________ ________________
The vehicles front control arm bushings are worn and loose at this time. This is
generally due to age/mileage as the stock rubber 1-piece bushing stretches out and
fails. We commonly see this around 60,000 miles +. This will cause ride discomfort
including: vibrations around 50 mph, brake vibrations, as well as accelerated front
inner tire wear.) We replace this bushing with a 2-piece poly-urethane bushing that
generally lasts substantially longer.
E-36 Front Control Arm Bushings Replacement. This job has a 30 month / 30,000
mile warranty
(which ever occurs first).

__________________________________________________ ________________
Job05 Tie Rod Assemblies $464.00
__________________________________________________ ________________
32 11 1 139 316 Tie Rod Assembly 1.0 Quan
32 11 1 139 315 Tie Rod Assembly 1.0 Quan
__________________________________________________ ________________
The technician, upon courtesy checkover, noted that the tie rod boots are split open
and grease is coming out. The technician recommends replacing the tie rod
assemblies at this time to prevent further accelerated suspension wear and abnormal
tire wear.
__________________________________________________ ________________
Job06 Differential Reseal $508.00
__________________________________________________ ________________
33 10 7 505 602 Diff. Side Cover Seal 2.0 Quan
33 12 1 214 080 Pinion Seal 1.0 Quan
000 043 203 73 Reinzosil (70ml tube) 1.0 Quan
__________________________________________________ ________________
The technician noted that the axle seals are leaking slightly. The technician
recommends replacing the seals at this time to prevent fluid loss. Based on the
replacement time for the axle seals, it is recommended that a full differential reseal
be performed.
__________________________________________________ ________________
Estimate Cost Summary
__________________________________________________ ________________
Tax: $133.26
Estimate Total: $3,493.08

[3050rpm]

From a strictly economic basis, it's not worth spending more on this car, but "economics" can be rather broadly defined. The fact that you are attached to this car somewhat says that you're willing to put conventional economics aside, as it's worth it to you to make the repairs and keep this car a long time. That can be done. Of course, much depends upon your financial resources, and abilities to do a lot of the work.

Basically, it seems to me you don't have a lemon, but you do have a car that suffered some abuse and lack of regular service and maintenance, which you've detailed. Some of these items are premature for a car with that amount of mileage on it, others are in the ball park for normal wear and replacement. What I've experienced with these cars is that the engines (both 4- and 6-cylinder) and the manual transmission (I don't think you mentioned which type you have) are quite reliable and durable. It's the suspension (control arms, ball joints, trailing arm bushings, plus other stuff you've mentioned) and the cooling system (radiator, water pump) that are the main weak spots. Overall though, from what you've listed, things don't seem that bad, except for that front strut work.

The other big thing you should assess is the amount of corrosion, both to body panels and the underside, where rusted in bolts and the like can make a fairly straightforward job of replacing some component just the start of a fall down a very deep hole. I gather that corrosion isn't that much of a problem, given that you've had the car looked at and the tech didn't outright shake his head. Also, although it's not mentioned, I gather the car has not been in a severe crash, to the point of causing damage to the frame and such, that can be a big problem.

If you like the car, can do much of the work yourself, and can afford to have the rest done, I don't think spending the money (and the time) is outlandish, in the end you'll have a reinvigorated car, capable of doing well more than another 100,000 miles, and one that you enjoy driving as well. And an added point, I think the E36 body style is still terrific, with nicely flowing and sculpted lines that the more recent angular styles just can't quite match. Good luck!

[Sandlot]

I put 6K into a '94 318i before I finally gave up. Having personal experience with a similar car, I say give up. I spun a bearing 50K after a top end rebuild and traded the car + $$ for a '96 328i and could not be happier. I also learned "never buy a BMW without service records".

[BostonGreen318]

Excellent advice 3050rpm, thank you for taking the time to respond to my query. I should also add that I agree with your assessment on all accounts. I especially concur with your opinion of the e36 body style. For my money, however, the design aesthetic never improved past the early nineties with the e30 and e34 representing the zenith of the make. That's an era which I look back on with fondeness. Thanks to Sandlot as well, although not exactly what I was wanting to hear. I suppose I really need to weigh the pros and cons on this one. . .

[3050rpm]

A further suggestion should you decide to go ahead with the "revitalization" project, you may wish to consider replacing the front control arms with those from '95 M3. As the integrated ball joints and bushings are made from stiffer stuff that what is found in the stock equipment, you pretty much avoid replacing them about every 50,000 miles or so, and the steering is noticeably sharper. I did this the last time around with my car having seen a write-up on it somewhere, perhaps even on this site, can't recall. I don't think the cost was any more than, or much more than, the regular control arms, and the job is straightforward, so far as replacing control arms goes. You would have somewhat different settings (camber, caster, toe-in, whatever) from stock, but the alignment and whatnot have to be done anyway as part of the job, and any good Hunter-equipped shop would know what to do. Something to consider...