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E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
Yea, you need to rock the wiper arm back and forth to get it off the shaft. Try spraying some lubricant on it and let it sit for a while to penetrate. If that doesn't do it, then you'll need to use a puller.
Umnitza now provides a mechanic to install all parts ordered right in the box! It's their new "Total customer service program" that will eliminate all the haters and keep incompetents from breaking **** and blaming the vendor! When you are all set simply call INS and they will pick him up free of charge.
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Your Ride: Whatever I can get my hands on
if you live in a state that salts its roads, it could be getting up into your engine compartment and sitting there and fucking things up..a dn for the cowl cover, thats where a;;teh salty water from slushy roads drips down your windshield to...
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Nuke (n): a large firework that makes pretty lights and large lakes out of annoying countries.
You have three choices, stand behind our troops, grab a gun and toe the line with our troops, or stand in front of them, they can use the extra armor.
Yeah salt can do that if you don't "rust proof" wash the car's undercarriage...
Also if the previous owners replaced original parts and/or panels with aftermarket low grade parts it could be rusting away and rust usually spreads like a virus.
You could replace panels or sand away the rust and paint over the panels....
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Your Ride: 1994 325is, 2000 z3 2.3
I had a that same problem on the drivers side of my car, but worse. My car had mudflaps on the front and they just kept water in them and it rusted the bottom part of the fender, and part of the bottom rocker panel. I ended up replacing the front left panel, having the rocker panel sandblasted, and buying the m-tech sideskirts which I then bolted over the old rocker panels. You should get that rust taken care of immediately, though. You don't want it spreading anywhere else.
If you don't care about replacing the grey, sandblast that as soon as possible and repaint it grey.
Ive got some rust issues on the bottom of my drivers side side skirt, so im taking the car to a mechanic i know to see what he recommends doing.. hes a restoration expert and restores 2k2's and alot of pre 1980 bimmers. When i get his advice il post some info up.
Basically what i think should be done is, the area should be sanded down to bare metal and all rust should be removed. Then new metal should be welded in if there is significant body damage (i dont have to do this because my rust is on the bottom of my car...) If you choose not to weld then bondo is the only other option if the car is serious disfigured because of the rust... Then primer, paint, and clear should be applied.
For the bottom of the car im most likely going to be removing the areas of the rust protection coating that are beginning to chip away and will be recoating it. Ive noticed that underneath the car where the chassis forms rights angles (It does this in a bunch of places) the coating ussually cracks, this needs to be dealth with accordingly as if water and debri (salt) get in through the cracking then it will just blow the rest of the coating off...
Anyways.. its going to be a messy pain in the ass to recoat the bottom of your car.. but judging from that rust spot it will need to be done, and that spot will have to be dealt with accordingly....
if youre talking about the black specs, thats just the gray paint coming off to reveal the black paint underneithe. id remove the rest of the gray paint so that your side skirts will match the rest of the car
__________________ T-Mac 95' BMW 325is Jet Black, 5 speed
Xtec 6000k HID kit, DDE Enhanced, Euro Ellipsoids, Alpine Mp3/CD, 20% tint,
M3 Contour Rims, Smoked Corners, Clear Side markers, K&N Performance Filter,
Debaffle, Color-matched side skirts, front plate delete, M3 Front Bumper
Color-matched rear bumper, Smoked tails, Stealth mod on P36s