You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1992 BMW 325i
1992 325i No resistance from clutch!!!
ok so i believe my clutch is done for.but i was told it could be a computer problem,my car was working great and shifting beautifully with no problem and out of nowhere this happens.the car starts and everything is normal on the dash but it wont let me shift in any gear when its running. is it possible that this is a problem from my onboard computer like i was told???i was messing with it right before i pressed the clutch!
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1994 BMW 525i, 1987 325is, 1986 325
????? Is your car manual or auto? If it's manual I don't see how the computer could make the clutch fail (they're not linked in a controllable fashion). If it's an auto then yes, a computer problem could cause what you're describing. But you need to be a bit more specific. (guessing manual) Clutch pedal feel, what happened right before the failure, any puddles of fluid under the car, is the brake pedal spongy
__________________
Big Evil, The BMW driving monster of the American Southwest (Currently on BMW #5)
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1994 BMW 525i, 1987 325is, 1986 325
Tried to respond but it wouldn't work, so posting it here
Bavarian auto has a few good alternatives bavauto.com tuning a beemer isn't going to be like your hondas in almost any regard. Doing the math selecting the RIGHT turbo is everything. Overboosting will kill the head gasket nothing flat and an overheat can destroy an engine, even one time only. BMW designs these things to give just about every ounce of power they can give right out of the box. Trying to squeeze more gets REAL expensive real fast. I do know that in its stock form my 87 325is has eaten many a tuner honda live. The inline 6 gives uber torque for its displacement low in the rpm band and the car will wind to 8g's real fast under load as a result. Most small 4 bangers don't make any real torque or power until 6-8 grand and by then the race is over. Try it stock and with stock exhaust for a bit (big pipes rob torque and therefore power) you may find that only a few mods (like a flowmaster muffler only and a chip) is all you really need to beat your buddy's car (and it'll eat him alive because you're doing it with way less.....on paper at least). Also cold air intakes, generally a waste of time on these. They already have them as well as true dual exhaust, in a 6 cyl. Haven't heard of az bimmer motor werks. There was a bills beemers over on mcclintock, they royally pissed me off once and I never went back. Do all of my own work as a result.
__________________
Big Evil, The BMW driving monster of the American Southwest (Currently on BMW #5)
Splain which part? the posting? Got a message through my profile, tried to reply but apparently the reply was too big (to many characters it said)
10-4
good to know it was the instant private messenger, from your post i thought part of the forum was down after we just completed all the updates and added a bunch of new features. / threadjack
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1992 BMW 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Evil
Tried to respond but it wouldn't work, so posting it here
Bavarian auto has a few good alternatives bavauto.com tuning a beemer isn't going to be like your hondas in almost any regard. Doing the math selecting the RIGHT turbo is everything. Overboosting will kill the head gasket nothing flat and an overheat can destroy an engine, even one time only. BMW designs these things to give just about every ounce of power they can give right out of the box. Trying to squeeze more gets REAL expensive real fast. I do know that in its stock form my 87 325is has eaten many a tuner honda live. The inline 6 gives uber torque for its displacement low in the rpm band and the car will wind to 8g's real fast under load as a result. Most small 4 bangers don't make any real torque or power until 6-8 grand and by then the race is over. Try it stock and with stock exhaust for a bit (big pipes rob torque and therefore power) you may find that only a few mods (like a flowmaster muffler only and a chip) is all you really need to beat your buddy's car (and it'll eat him alive because you're doing it with way less.....on paper at least). Also cold air intakes, generally a waste of time on these. They already have them as well as true dual exhaust, in a 6 cyl. Haven't heard of az bimmer motor werks. There was a bills beemers over on mcclintock, they royally pissed me off once and I never went back. Do all of my own work as a result.
thanks for clearing that up for me! so you recommend flowmaster? i jus dont want that high pitch ricer sound...for now im just sleeving the motor and performance ignition
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1994 BMW 525i, 1987 325is, 1986 325
The flowmaster will give you a mellow throaty exhaust note with the inline 6 and keep it smooth and low (in tone) as the engine revs through the rpm band. They sound great, not tinny and raspy like the fart cans do on the 4 cyls.
__________________
Big Evil, The BMW driving monster of the American Southwest (Currently on BMW #5)
07-22-2009, 12:42 AM
Similar Threads
