You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1992 325i
Right rear wheel bearing repair
Is it truly necessary to use an axle/bearing puller to complete this job? I heard it could be hell without it. My right rear is to the point where the rotor been damaged by the caliper.
Last edited by peteswphilly; 10-24-2007 at 10:28 AM..
Reason: spelling error
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1995 325 IS
I did mine with out, but I had to take the whole trailing arm off and do it in a press, it was actually pretty easy to press out and back in with the new one, you just need a variety of things to press on the proper areas of the new bearing so you do not damage it pressing it in. An extra hand at the press would be a big help.
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1997 318se Touring
Ive done it without a puller on a different car (similar setup) it can be a real pain if you don't have a press or a puller, those bearings are a hell of a tight fit.
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: '94 325is
I did mine without a puller and without a press. Took me an entire weekend to do which included taking the control arm out, but it can be done.
I took the arm out and hammered the old outer bearing race out of the control arm from the back side, and although it does take some force, it can be done. To get the new one in, I put the arm in a vice and cleaned out the old bearing seat, and aligned the new bearing to the best of my ability. I then took a maul and a piece of 2x4 and just slowly pounded it in. Once you get the bearing in past the lip on the arm, take the old outer bearing race and put it on top of the new bearing. Use the old race as a "die" for the new bearing and smash it in.
To press the axle back into the new bearing, I lubed it liberally with some Mobil 1, put the hub on and used an impact wrench to seat it.
It can be done, you just have to get creative. The whole job cost me the price of the bearing, $28.
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: e36 316i
I've done a couple with threaded bar as a press, had to take out the trailing arm though.
Hard work but both sides in a long day. An assitant or good vice helps. Be sure to mark the mounting plate for the trailing arm amd the lower control arm bolt (eliptical one) as this helps get the geometry right on refitting.