Starting problems. - United Bimmer Community

**asko2807** · 10-22-2007, 08:31 PM

Help. I've got a 1997 328i and recently when I start up the car I have to keep my foot on the pedal, if not it would shut off. Once it's warmed up it runs great. Any ideas?

**Skilario** · 10-22-2007, 08:37 PM

check the idler control valve, it gets gunked up with carbon and cant open/close so it wont idle. i cleaned mine out with carborator cleaner and got it so that with a shake of the hand you could feel/hear it move around in there, popped it back in and boom, idled perfect. there are some writeups somewhere around here.

**asko2807** · 10-22-2007, 08:48 PM

Thanks for the quick response. I will clean it out tomorrow. Will loet you know.

**Numark318i** · 10-22-2007, 08:48 PM

^^what he said.

**asko2807** · 10-24-2007, 08:24 AM

Hey guys I did what you said and cleaned out the ICV really good. The problem is still there, any other suggestions???

**asko2807** · 11-02-2007, 09:19 PM

Hi, you gave me some advice a couple of week ago concerning my 1997 328i. I cleaned the ICV really good but the problem still exists. The problem actually has gotten worse. The car would continue to shut off until warmed up. Any other ideas??? help!!!

**Skilario** · 11-02-2007, 09:28 PM

hmmm.. might have something to do with MAF? anyone have any ideas?

**gwumpkus** · 11-26-2007, 07:01 AM

happened to mine lately. check ur Fuel Pressure regulator. mine was faulty, had to fllor it one start, but runs fine otherwise. too many mechanics have conveniently pointed to the MAF... i traced the air supply line.. wasnt convinced. turned out iw as right..

..

hoe this helps

cheers
michael

**3050rpm** · 11-26-2007, 07:33 AM

Just a thought, and I really don't know if this fits the symptoms, but you may have a leaking fuel injector(s).

**frankzen** · 11-26-2007, 08:43 AM

Had the same problem on my 95 ( matter of fact it's back now the weather is colder) - but it stopped doing that when my alternator died and was replaced. My theory at the time was the ICV is electrical and the voltage to it must have been low. However..ahem...it's started doing it again, but ONLY when the engine is near-cold. When it's cold it starts and idles fine, and when it's hot it starts and idles fine. When it is doing it's thing, the check engine lights comes on...until it decides to idle...then it goes off. The code according to everyone I've talked to indicates a MAF problem...but it had been replaced when I bought the car. (it's been doing it's non-idle thing since I bought it). Very annoying to have to sit in your Bimmer until it decides to idle properly!!

**TECH** · 12-03-2007, 10:55 PM

Make sure that the idle valve moves freely. You should be able to shake it and make it move.

**Dudesky** · 12-04-2007, 04:57 AM

All this is speculation until you pull the fault codes. If you don't have a code reader, go to your local Autozone and they'll retrieve the OBD II error codes for you. Even if the Check Engine light isn't lit, there'll probably be codes stored there.