So my car is STILL messed up... - Page 2 - United Bimmer Community

**mullethunter3** · 08-20-2007, 01:32 PM

Okay, but after the fifth time stomping on the gas, do I leave the car in position 2? Also, I'm under the impression that I'm taking the car out of position 2 after each stomp. Am I retarded?

**Dudesky** · 08-20-2007, 02:47 PM

Once you turn it to position 2, leave it there the whole time. Don't touch the car keys until you're done reading the codes.

**mullethunter3** · 08-20-2007, 03:01 PM

Will do. Thanks guys.

**mullethunter3** · 08-20-2007, 03:05 PM

Okay, the code it's throwing is 1222: Lambda Control 1.

What is God's name is Lambda Control 1?

**Kasei** · 08-20-2007, 04:16 PM

http://www.picotech.com/auto/lambda_sensor.html

That talks about the lambda sensor, I'm guessing that it has something to do with that.

**mullethunter3** · 08-20-2007, 05:09 PM

Called BavAuto, Al said it was the oxygen sensor relay.

Apparently, the "Lambda" is the oxygen sensor and the "Lambda Control" is the oxygen sensor relay. He said that it could be that the O2 sensor isn't being told to warm up properly and that the cause of that could be the relay, as in code 1222.

Any suggestions on parts? Part numbers?

**Dudesky** · 08-20-2007, 06:10 PM

Bingo! That was one of my guesses

Yea the O2 sensor is aka the lambda sensor; that's what it's known as in Europe. Here's the thing: I think Al is wrong. "Lambda" and "Lambda Control" both mean the same, and have no reference to the relay. His diagnosis should trigger a code 1264: O2 sensor heater malfunction. That will usually indicate that the relay is faulty. A code 1222 however, indicates the sensor is operating beyond its normal range. You can verify this with anyplace that lists the OBD I code system, whether it be the Bentley, Pelican, Unnofficial BMW, etc. But to be on the safe side, I would replace both. You'll be able to get the O2 sensor from Pep Boys or anyone online that caters to BMW's. The relay you want is the Bosch orange relay, Pelican's part # is 61-36-1-378-238-M14.

**mullethunter3** · 08-20-2007, 06:47 PM

Thanks Chrys, but that part number is for a "fuel relay"... is that really necessary? Sorry if I sound cheap, but I really want to buy a motorcycle... it's looking pretty close money-wise.

**Dudesky** · 08-20-2007, 07:09 PM

Yes, it's the same part # as a fuel relay for an E30. It's orange, and if you look in your fusebox, you'll see it's also used in other systems.

**mullethunter3** · 08-20-2007, 07:12 PM

Alright, thanks again. Expect an O2 sensor DIY around winter time... I'm too busy now.

**TechniqueTuning** · 08-21-2007, 03:40 PM

Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, as they can also cause that same fault code.

With that fault code, it will either be a faulty O2 sensor heater relay, not allowing the O2 to heat up at idle (making it give false readings), or the O2 sensor itself could be faulty. Try this:

- disconnect the battery so the DME loses it's memory/adaption
- reconnect the battery
- disconnect the O2 sensor (leave it disconnected)
- start the car and see how it runs (you'll probably have a CEL from the O2 being disconnected)

If the car runs smooth and trouble free, then it's the O2 sensor (or relay) at fault. If it still runs weird, then it's something else (vacuum leak, bad coil, faulty idle speed motor, etc.).

**mullethunter3** · 01-06-2008, 06:54 PM

Okay, an update to this issue as well:

I've replaced my O2 sensor. Car ran fine for about two days, then went back to doing the same old crap. I did not replace the fuse Dudesky was talking about, but I'll be ordering it on Monday when everyone opens again.The problem is temperature related. At below 20, the car will kill itself if not warmed up with my foot on the gas, forcing it to idle at 1500 for a while. The car will sort itself out after a mile of driving, which is better than it used to be... I could drive it for a half hour in the cold and it wouldn't improve. Anyway, today it was 70 out, so I pull the car out to wash it (also, I hadn't driven it since the 31st, due to the door problem) and the car started and ran perfectly. Idle at 850-900. Perfect. No shakes, no death.

So, I guess what I'm asking is... what should I do now? Oh, and whatever it is, it has to be done by Friday, I'm leaving for school then and my car kind of takes a back seat to school.

K thanks!