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E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
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Your Ride: 2001 BMW 330ci Turbo, 2002 X5 3.0
Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, as they can also cause that same fault code.
With that fault code, it will either be a faulty O2 sensor heater relay, not allowing the O2 to heat up at idle (making it give false readings), or the O2 sensor itself could be faulty. Try this:
- disconnect the battery so the DME loses it's memory/adaption
- reconnect the battery
- disconnect the O2 sensor (leave it disconnected)
- start the car and see how it runs (you'll probably have a CEL from the O2 being disconnected)
If the car runs smooth and trouble free, then it's the O2 sensor (or relay) at fault. If it still runs weird, then it's something else (vacuum leak, bad coil, faulty idle speed motor, etc.).
Technique Tuning Inc.
BMW Turbo Systems and Forced Induction Tuning
I've replaced my O2 sensor. Car ran fine for about two days, then went back to doing the same old crap. I did not replace the fuse Dudesky was talking about, but I'll be ordering it on Monday when everyone opens again.The problem is temperature related. At below 20, the car will kill itself if not warmed up with my foot on the gas, forcing it to idle at 1500 for a while. The car will sort itself out after a mile of driving, which is better than it used to be... I could drive it for a half hour in the cold and it wouldn't improve. Anyway, today it was 70 out, so I pull the car out to wash it (also, I hadn't driven it since the 31st, due to the door problem) and the car started and ran perfectly. Idle at 850-900. Perfect. No shakes, no death.
So, I guess what I'm asking is... what should I do now? Oh, and whatever it is, it has to be done by Friday, I'm leaving for school then and my car kind of takes a back seat to school.
Originally Posted by c1apton
- "The DIY Goddess" - nice job (She's "schoolin'" the boyZ)