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E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
I ve been having overheating woes due to what seems like a faulty thermostat and a small leak on the radiator. So today I started pulling apart the cooling system and removed the themostat and put it into boiling water and it did nothing so presumeably it is broken.
My question is does my car really need one? The temperature in Fiji never drops below 18C (65F) and there are no highways to speak of. So I am hoping I can save myself $50 and trash the old one.
Also I will try to fix the leak with some kind of additive before buying a new radiator, bush styley...
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50!??! i bought a new thermostat about a week ago and it cost me $12 with the gasket. but as far as i know, a car dosnt really need one. it will just take longer to warm up.
yeah the thermostat is intergrated into the bracket (although I managed to get it out) $50 from pelican plus shipping to the back of beyond... (also x2 to get into our $$)
thought it wasn t really needed but my mechanic landlord said it might be required to help to presurise the system.
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ah, very true. i know almost every farmer in town takes theirs out in the summer. but then i releized they are all driving puckups with huge engines. then i also relized that they arnt bmws. haha. so basicly, ignore what iv said.
Removing the t-stat back in the old days was okay, but not with today's sophisticated cars- very bad idea. Running cool is just as bad as running too hot; engines have an optimal operating temperature. Your air/fuel ratio and combustion parameters would change, and your emissions would be affected. In short, you could potentially damage your engine sooner or later. In addition to that, the engine management system will start throwing codes since coolant temps are one of the things it monitors to make adjustments to other components. You'll just end up with more problems than you have now.
Doesn't matter. There are parameters that have are expected by the ECU at certain points and times, and a wide open t-stat doesn't achieve this. Also, BMW's use a closed cooling system, which relies on pressure to operate efficiently. Without the t-stat it becomes compromised and probably won't hold up well. There is also a risk of destroying the catalytic converter and O2 sensors- that is if you guys have them in Fiji. But you may be okay in the short term, I'm saying you should replace the part and not leave it off permanently.
Any thoughts on using a leak stop additive? will it srew up the water pump?
Bar's Leaks is the only one I would recommend (and if c1apton was here, he would say the same ) Many manufacturers use it even on new engines for an ounce of prevention.
off topic, there is something bothering me about the apparently misfitting panel just over the rear lens in your sig. do you see what i mean? or is it just the angle of the photo? (dont mean to trash your new ride)
Goddammit . . you just made me run out to the car in the middle of the night It's not the trunk lid, it's the way the tail lights are cut from the factory. There's a slight dip to accomodate the trunk lid when it gets shut.
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Your Ride: 1991 525i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dudesky
Goddammit . . you just made me run out to the car in the middle of the night It's not the trunk lid, it's the way the tail lights are cut from the factory. There's a slight dip to accomodate the trunk lid when it gets shut.
Goddammit . . you just made me run out to the car in the middle of the night It's not the trunk lid, it's the way the tail lights are cut from the factory. There's a slight dip to accomodate the trunk lid when it gets shut.
Hahaha, I could just see you read that and pause for a second and then leap from your computer and tear out to the back end of your car.
I ve ordered some parts: t-stat, radiator and 4 new water hoses that loop round off the back of the engine (as one of these sprung a leak when I was test driving yesterday and the coolant started to boil)
I have also dropped the car at the stealership this morn as the electric fan seemed to be faulty (maybe related to missing t-stat) and to see if the obd is throwing any codes. I am worried that the overheating might have damaged some of the sensors.
the bitch is that it will take three weeks for the parts to arrive, so if I need any more bits I would like to order them asap. no fun owning a sick bimmer in paradise.