Intro, "hi" and question...the all in one thread. ;)

[intelbank]

Hi folks,

first of all, i'm new here as a registered user, even though, i've been reading the forum for a while now.

I just followed the instructions to refill my A/C, worked like a charm, i'm actually getting cool air now. - Awesome thread!!!

Here are a few questions though:

Data:
1992, e36 325i, 4 Door, 5 speed, 155k miles, 17" rims, black/black - picked it up for $2k, now the work is starting. - go figure.

I have a few issues that i can't seem to pinpoint or explain:

1, rear axle, passenger side: Everytime i take a right hand turn, i get a knocking noise from the rear right side (passenger), only in turns. Speed doesn't matter, radius of the curve does. the tighter the turn, the more intense the knocking noise.

2, transmission or rear axle: everytime i step on OR get off the gas or step on the clutch, i get an acoustic "squeak". the harder i step on/off the louder the "squeak". this started about 1 week ago. not sure where it originates.

3, the problem that puzzles me the most: my engine seems to be turning a bit high. indication: 5th gear on the highway, my RPM shows identical to my speedometer. in other words: when i go 60MPH, my RPM needle is on 2500RPM, at 75MPH it's on roughly 3250RPM. That's a bit high RPM, isn't it?
Computer problem?

All other problems are small things, like the windows not lining up and i need a new windshield. other than that, for a $2k car, i'm not complaining.

Any and all comments, help, ticks & tricks are appreciated!

Thanks guys!

[witeshark]

The rear axle noise: has the differential fluid been changed? Oh, and welcome

[3050rpm]

Hope you get to enjoy many happy miles...

1) Check your rear trailing arm bushings, also rear shocks and shock mounts (doing the latter also means you'll be checking for subframe integrity, but I don't that's the issue, provided the car hasn't been beaten on or used on a track);

2) Yeah, changing the differential fluid wouldn't be a bad idea if you have no idea when it was last done.* Also, your transmission mounts may be worn/cracked.

3) That's normal for BMWs (that's why I have that moniker, on the highway I set the car for about that rev range, which is about 71 mph). I don't know, but I think BMW does that for use at highway speeds, ample torque and horsepower available without having to wait for them to develop when you need them. To me the amazing thing is that the 6-cylinder engine delivers very good fuel economy at those speeds and rpms, comparable to and often better than slower turning engines.

* You should do all the other fluids and filters, as well as the belts, to establish a baseline if you don't have good service records

[intelbank]

Thanks for the welcome, guys!

Unfortunately, i don't have any records about the car, whatsoever. I found it tucked away in the second row of a small car lot, flat tire and everything. Supposedly, the kid that used to own it, couldn't handle the shifting and how stiff the car is. Someone must have put different shocks in it, the car is sitting as hard as rock.

Given the fact that the A/C fluid/pressure level was almost zero, i'm just wagering an educated guess,.....the rest of the fluids has never been touched either....

So, I'll definitely have all the fluids changed, you guys are most definitely right about that. Is there a DIY version of changing trans and diff fluids, or would it be better to have a mechanic do it?

Originally Posted by 3050rpm

Also, your transmission mounts may be worn/cracked.

Something tells me that this wouldn't be the cheap way out, eh?

Last but not least, where can i get a windshield at? lol

Once the car is halfway presentable and not a complete disgrace to this forum, i'll start posting pics.

[nick_318is]

Welcome, the transmission mounts shouldn't be too hard to do. I would say since its new and you dont have any records, either do the inspection 2 service yourself (if you have access to tools and some idea what your doing), or take it to a Dealer/Independent BMW shop and have them do it and then have a place to start a good maintenance schedule. You might want to pick up a Bently book for repairs if you plan to do a lot yourself. The inspection 2 should give you a really good idea of what needs to be done on the car to get it into shape.

The RPM sounds about right to me, in my car at 4500 im doing 80, both the tack needle and Speed Needle point at about the same angle.

Welcome and good luck getting the 325i into shape.

[Dudesky]

Originally Posted by intelbank

Is there a DIY version of changing trans and diff fluids, or would it be better to have a mechanic do it?

No DIY required, and it's easy as pie. The trans and diff have drain and fill plugs, and the procedure is the same for both. The trans uses 17mm socket, while the diff uses a 14mm hex bit. The higher plug is obviously the fill plug. Keep the car level, and drain the fluid. Close the drain plug and refill through the fill plug, until the fluid starts coming out of the fill plug. Close it up and you're done- that simple. I'm a Red Line fan, so naturaly I recommend Red Line D4 for the trans, and Red Line 75W-90 for the diff.

I also concur with 3050rpm on the right side knocking- most likely worn or weak trailing arm bushings. Another possibility might be your sway bar or sway bar link, or a loose exhaust system. And yes, that's normal rpm behavior for these cars. On the squeaking, you sure it's not coming from the pedals? The bushing on the pedal is known to squeak, and is really annoying. UUC Motorwerks sells quieter replacements.

Regarding the BMW inspection program- given the condition of the car, I don't think it would be wise to spend money on that . . an Inspection II costs about $750 on average- almost half what you paid for the car, money that could be better spent getting some of the more obvious stuff fixed. There are lists out there on the net that detail what these inspections entail, and you can just follow them and inspect most of the items yourself. Just my opinion tho. But definitely get a copy of the Bentley service manual- that will be your bible for working on the car.

Anyhoo, welcome and good luck with the car- keep us informed!

[3050rpm]

For DIY info, go to the Knowledge Base at the top of this page, and also check out pelicanparts.com, they've got a rather helpful section on stuff you can do or try yourself. To the extent that you're reasonably mechanically inclined and have or are willing to get the tools, you can do a lot of the stuff yourself, and save some serious money, as well as get to know your car better.

[intelbank]

Awesome, great, Love it! Thanks for the welcome(s) and the responses!

I'll save the cash on the Inspection II and rather invest it into the car. I might run it to a shop and have them hook it up to their computer, just to see whether i missed something, i'll take it from there then.
Unfortunately, i have to admit that i'm learning as i go here. Many of the things/remedies are common sense, on the flip side, there are tons of things where i look as matching as a cow in a NASA suit.

Can anyone point the way as to where i could get the Bentley repair manual please? Is there a special one that i should get, etc.
Thanks for the tip with pelicanparts, it's where i'm headed next.
**EDIT: Seems that i ran right into the Robert Bentley Repair Manual for e36 Problem solved. **Edit End**
I appreciate all your help, feels like i'm on the right track

Oh yeah, does anyone else have a magic e36? When i lock mine, it auto unlocks itself. Must have something to do with the alarm system that the kid had in previously. Looks as if he just took it out w/o getting the car back in original and locking condition.

Apparently, there are many little things to fix, hence the low price i guess.

[witeshark]

Originally Posted by intelbank

Oh yeah, does anyone else have a magic e36? When i lock mine, it auto unlocks itself. Must have something to do with the alarm system that the kid had in previously. Looks as if he just took it out w/o getting the car back in original and locking condition.

My car only does that if some lock interference (like a door ajar/partly open) is happening
That sig rocks!

[intelbank]

Originally Posted by witeshark

...some lock interference (like a door ajar/partly open) is happening
That sig rocks!

I wish that would be the case. Doors are securely shut, no obvious interference at all. I'm not quite sure what's going on with this. If it'd be something visual to identify it would be a lot easier, in this case it's down to guess work and elimination.

Thanks for the sig compliments

[Numark318i]

Originally Posted by intelbank

I wish that would be the case. Doors are securely shut, no obvious interference at all. I'm not quite sure what's going on with this. If it'd be something visual to identify it would be a lot easier, in this case it's down to guess work and elimination.

Not sure if you have fuse for the locking system..but check those if you do.

[Dudesky]

Originally Posted by intelbank

Unfortunately, i have to admit that i'm learning as i go here. Many of the things/remedies are common sense, on the flip side, there are tons of things where i look as matching as a cow in a NASA suit.

We're all in the same boat, no one knows everything

I just got rid of my '92 325i, so I know your pain Unfortunately, your car doesn't seem like it was too well maintained, so I think some of the first things you ought to do (especially with that mileage) is to get compression and leak down tests done. They're good indicators of the engine's health and status, and should determine just how much effort, time & money you should put into the car. Even if those turn out okay, you should know that at that mileage, you're basically looking at restoring a good portion of the car. I'm not trying to scare you, just sharing some of my experiences with mine . . if it wasn't one thing it was another that had to be repaired or replaced. It was a lobor of love, but in the end, I'd had enough, and decided to throw in the towel.

[intelbank]

, especially with the "Labor of Love" statement. Buying the '92 was purely a sentimental thing. I drove a 320i convertible back in the mid 90's, so seeing the 325i sitting there, in an obvious neglected condition got to me. I know, this may sound as if i'd have gone off the deep end.
I guess my next steps are to: (not in order of importance)

• fix whatever noise comes from the rear axle
• the passenger side rear noise
• the locking problem
• eventually replace the radio
• replace the ceiling liner
• get the windows lined back up on their tracks
• change trans/diff fluid
• get new catback exhaust on
• and fix the driver side rear lights, they're notoriously out. Seems to be the "ancient" problem with the wiring going to them.

Somehow, it looks as if i have my work cut out for me....

[3050rpm]

Just to add to your list, and high on the priority scale as well...

1) Flush cooling system, that means radiator AND block;
2) Flush brake system;
3) Change belts, or at least check them for cracks;
4) Check the power steering fluid for proper level and cleanliness;
5) Charge a/c (not so high on priority list if you can do without it, the problem could be a small leak, or something bigger like the compressor).

[Kasei]

Wecome to UB. Hope you can get the E36 back to glory. Oh and that sig is pretty sick.