You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
E36General discussion and technical help for (E36) 1992-1999 3 series cars. 318, 323, 325, 328.
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 94 bmw 325i, 97 vw golf
For a 328 save up a bit more and do an M50 manifold w/ s52 cams ( 96 - 99 M3's) and software. You will find great gains because there are shark injectors designed for all of those mods. Or you could do cams and the manifold, and your car would run so-so and get the software after, dont get it before..
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1997 BMW 328is Boston Green/Sand Leather
Hows your mechanical ability? Cams can be had for $300 used. Installing is a different story. A shop might charge you $300-500 for installation if you can't do it yourself.
1996-1999 S52 M3 Cams = $300 (20-25 hp)
1992-1995 M50 Manifold = $75-125 (15 hp)
Cold Air Intake (Cosmos V1/V2) = $75-150 (5-8 hp)
Traction contol delete boot = $20 (3 hp)
Cam specific software = $500-675 (You can have the stock DME burned or buy the seperate and uninstallable Shark Style Injector)
Standard Shark Injector = $375 (Will do about 75% of what the Cam software should do)
Custom Exhaust = $300 (5-7 hp)
Pulleys = $150-250 (5 hp)
Fan Delete = $90 (3-5 hp)
Don't just add all of the HP estimate up to get a total. After adding the cams, M50 manifold, and software the rest just work to optimize the flow of the engine with no major gains. With all of the above you should see around 225-230 whp and over 200 ft/lbs of torque. This would make you faster than a stock and on par with a lightly modded M3.
Hows your mechanical ability? Cams can be had for $300 used. Installing is a different story. A shop might charge you $300-500 for installation if you can't do it yourself.
1996-1999 S52 M3 Cams = $300 (20-25 hp)
1992-1995 M50 Manifold = $75-125 (15 hp)
Cold Air Intake (Cosmos V1/V2) = $75-150 (5-8 hp)
Traction contol delete boot = $20 (3 hp)
Cam specific software = $500-675 (You can have the stock DME burned or buy the seperate and uninstallable Shark Style Injector)
Standard Shark Injector = $375 (Will do about 75% of what the Cam software should do)
Custom Exhaust = $300 (5-7 hp)
Pulleys = $150-250 (5 hp)
Fan Delete = $90 (3-5 hp)
Don't just add all of the HP estimate up to get a total. After adding the cams, M50 manifold, and software the rest just work to optimize the flow of the engine with no major gains. With all of the above you should see around 225-230 whp and over 200 ft/lbs of torque. This would make you faster than a stock and on par with a lightly modded M3.
not going to make that much power...i made 207 whp with all those mods and 185wtq...its close to an m3 but the m is still faster. to get to 220whp you need to swap for an underdiven crank pulley which might lead to longevity issues with your motor. most 328's with those mods that i have seen make power pretty close to mine.
cams and manifold are the best bang for your buck...cam install is easy if you follow the pelican parts diy article.
by the time you do all those mods you might as well start looking at fi systems like a vf s/c which starts around $4500 and will yield much better gains than any of those other mods.
power close to yours? since when does a turbo 328 only make that much?
Any new vids, or info about your car?
hahha, that was prior to the turbo
the car is just about done. just waiting on the right oil cooler cap from bimmerworld...ordered the wrong one the first time
took it out this weekend only to find that my improvised turbo oil feed, until the right oil filter housing cap comes which i will use for the supply, didnt quite hold up. it lasted for probably a half hour of driving before it came off and squirted oil everywhere in my engine bay...i think i am going to wait for the right piece before i take it out again lol.
just hoping that all the oil that was squirted on my alternator didnt damage it... any way to check if the alternator was damaged? i cleaned it off with orange cleaner and wd40 and will let it sit for a day or two before i plug the battery back in and charge it up.
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 94 bmw 325i, 97 vw golf
take it to pep boys, or somewhere similar to get a free check? Thats what I did for mine, and it was still fine arggh, bimmer garage that did my new swaybar mounts didnt put the alternator ground back on the swaybar mount on the pass side I think it is..
User not setup in Rate My Car. Click here to set it up.
Your Ride: 1998 328i
Ah thanks for the inpute all, very good stuff...
Alright so (i'm new to car engine tuning, just recently sold a wrangler where i just worked on suspension upgrades)...
What is a traction control delete boot and a fan delete?
And where can i get these things?
Also, if i just start with the m50 manifold, my car will still drive fine? or at what point will i need, if ever, a software upgrade?
Anything else to know about these upgrades, and at what point is best to install a software upgrade.
Alright so (i'm new to car engine tuning, just recently sold a wrangler where i just worked on suspension upgrades)...
What is a traction control delete boot and a fan delete?
And where can i get these things?
Also, if i just start with the m50 manifold, my car will still drive fine? or at what point will i need, if ever, a software upgrade?
Anything else to know about these upgrades, and at what point is best to install a software upgrade.
Thanks a lot very helpful
you will be fine with just the m50 manifold...wait for software till you change the cams.
fan delete is just simply removing the belt driven fan and installing a low temp fan switch...just frees up some power by removing the weight of the fan from the motor. i find it really only makes a noticable difference in first gear which is much more responsive.
You also need a lower temp thermostat for the fan delete mod. And always adviseable to use Water Wetter. For complete details on how to do it right, go to http://www.understeer.com/fanclutchmod.shtml
What do ya'll think is the best yet most economical upgrade, performance wise (more speed and power) for a 1998 328i, e36? Thanks!
Looking at best bang for the buck, I recommend the M50 intake manifold swap. You can then follow that with a cold air intake and then a firmware reflash to make the most out of those bolt-ons. All the other stuff is cool and all, but it doesn't give you as favorable a cost/performance ratio.