OBDI code 1221 - Page 2 - United Bimmer Community

**RSF5** · 03-10-2007, 08:31 PM

Oh man. that sucks, I hope that it all works out.

**c1apton** · 03-10-2007, 10:26 PM

Dski, that plug (pictured) looks like fuel/rich. I've seen oil fouled and it looks alot worse than that, Are you sure that wasn't excess fuel you spotted on plugs & pistons? I'm thinking that bad 02 sensor was making things run rich on you - honestly that plug looks fuel "loaded".

**Dudesky** · 03-11-2007, 08:17 AM

^^^It didn't smell like fuel, but you could be right. Now that I've had a decent night's sleep, I'm thinking straight again- I can't see how every single plug and cylinder could be oil fouled. I don't think it's the O2 sensor, more like the O2 sensor is getting damaged each time I replace it because of something else. All the engine sensors and senders have now been replaced, maybe it's the fuel pressure regulator?

**c1apton** · 03-11-2007, 09:11 AM

Yea, that plug looked like a rich condition (and really not that bad of one) Also if you use alot of additives (or the gas you use does) will do that too. Buying gas from different places sometimes causes that. Personally, I only use BP and I use the "middle grade" because it's consistent. And I use STP gas treatment about every 4th tankful. Hell a dirty air filter can cause that + the fact of cold weather. Try tracing the wires going from o2 to DME - I'm suspecting a loose or "chaffed" wire sending a false signal (and ALL the ground leads)

**Dudesky** · 03-11-2007, 02:24 PM

Nope, not the wiring. I got continuity between the O2 sensor end and the DME harness end, and inspection of the wiring shows a clean run all the way through. I guess my next step is to replace the fuel pressure regulator. Upon visual inspection, it looks like it had been spilling off some fuel around it; there's some obvious corrosion. Since it's a PITA to remove the rail and test the part, I'm just gonna opt to replace it, that way I don't have to pull everything apart twice. But I can't do anything till Tue, since I have to order the part online tomorrow and get it here overnite. Tried everywhere local this morning, but no one has it

Quote:

Originally Posted by witeshark

Oh wow I'm sorry to hear

How many miles are on it? I actually have trouble seeing that

It's coming up on 155k. Not entirely unusual for things like this to happen since the car is 15yrs old, I just wish it wasn't happening to me

**RSF5** · 03-11-2007, 06:28 PM

Seems like everything fails at once doesn't it?

**94bmw325i** · 03-11-2007, 10:25 PM

Dudesky that seems really weird.. I mean just replacing an 02 sensor shouldnt have all these issues..

**Dudesky** · 03-11-2007, 11:04 PM

Like I said . . . only me

**Dudesky** · 03-11-2007, 11:27 PM

Oh yea . . forgot to mention that I was sitting in an '07 328xi coupe this weekend

**94bmw325i** · 03-12-2007, 11:52 PM

those are nice! I hate to say this, but the only problems I have really had with my e36 has been an oil leak and now my power steering, I will be fixing, and/or getting both fixed soon. Recently when I thought it was my alternator being the problem, it turns out when I got new swaybar mounts welded on, the alternator ground wasn't put back, I didn't check that arrggh! Until a few days after I bought a new alternator and was about to put it in, I guess it is some preventative maintenance. I have gone on other forums and peoples coolant expansion tanks have exploded?

Maybe it's a manual e36 thing? I mean I do go all out on my car sometimes, driving wise.

**Dudesky** · 03-13-2007, 05:35 AM

It has nothing to do with manual or auto, it's just another weak point in the E36 cooling system. The design failure often occurs along the wall that separates the two chambers inside the tank. Over time, that area becomes weaker than the pressure resistance of the vent cap.

**94bmw325i** · 03-13-2007, 12:43 PM

but im saying my car hasn't had any cooling issues, but people with newer and older e36's, more miles, less ,etc had the problem, and most were manual so I wasnt sure if beating on the car more led to more heat so that was why?

**Dudesky** · 03-13-2007, 01:00 PM

Me? Of all people? I DON'T BEAT ON MY CAR, so there goes your theory

**c1apton** · 03-13-2007, 01:48 PM

Dski, you don't happen to have the "fan delete"mod going on do you? Just curious...

**Dudesky** · 03-13-2007, 10:04 PM

^^^Yes, as a matter of fact I do

I've considered that as a possible cause for the tank grenading, but I'm still not convinced about it. There are no indications at all that the car is overheating; the damn tank just goes

Someone elsewhere suggested that I may have a small head gasket leak, and the combustion gases may be entering the cooling system, thereby pressurizing it??

Anyhow, the CEL issue continues. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, mind you with great difficulty. Anything and everything that could have gone wrong happened while doing this job, and it took me 4-1/2hrs to do it. I then replaced to O2 sensor (3rd time). Still smokes out back, and instead of 1221 or 1222, the fault code is now 1264: O2 sensor heater element

Tomorrow I'll bench test the O2 sensor heater relay and recheck the wiring. If that doesn't work out, I'll just take out my trusty 20lb sledgehammer and go to town on this stupid car.

I'm tired.