e30 problem need help
 

i have a 1985 e30 with stock m20 i replaced rod bearings because it had a slit tick and i know it was not the valves cause they where .010 and when i replaced the rod bearings it got louder it only has 125,000 original miles any ideas post pack

The M20 valve train normally has a tick to it.

yeah but its really loud louder than that would be

like witeshark said, it should have a tick, sound like a typewriter. if its worse than that, maybe it needs a valve adjustment.

yep adjusting the valves works on this
I used to have that but me and my dad readjusted the valves and it's pretty much gone now...
be careful that you adjust them the right spot because there's two spots where you can do so

its not the valve every thing is under spec

1985 BMW 318i (E30) won't start
 

Hi. I am new here, but somewhat familiar with BMW’s. I had a ’72 BMW 2002A for about 6 years, and sold it several years ago. I recently purchased a 1985 BMW 318i (E30) from someone for $300. It has 148K miles on it. The previous owner (named Betty) told me that her sister was driving the car one day, and it just stopped running. It was towed and checked out by a mechanic soon thereafter, and he told her that the in-tank fuel pump was the problem. She did not get it fixed. After that, the car sat in front of Betty’s house for about 2 years before I bought it.

I replaced the in-tank fuel pump and the (rusted out and badly dented) fuel tank with new parts. The high-pressure fuel pump was gone/missing, so I had to replace that. I also replaced the fuel filter. I can blow thru the fuel pressure damper, which is next to the high-pressure fuel pump, with no resistance whatsoever. I’ll probably have to replace it, but I do not think that it would prevent gas from being pumped from the tank to the engine. After I did all of this, I poured two gallons of fresh gas into the tank, hooked up a battery, and tried to start the car. The engine would turn and turn, but it would not start.

I did not check to see if there was an ignition spark, so I should probably do that. I disconnected the fuel lines, and tried starting the vehicle, and no fuel was pumping. I checked the voltage at the in-tank fuel pump with the ignition switch in the ‘on’ position, and measured no voltage. I did not bother to check the voltage at the high-pressure pump, figuring that if there is no voltage at the first pump, the system ain’t working down the line. Shouldn’t there be voltage at the in-tank pump when the ignition switch is ‘on’, but not necessarily only when starting the vehicle?

I carefully (visually) checked each and every fuse, and they were all good. Should I replace the fuel pump relay? It is a tall relay, next to two other large rectangular relays which I found under a black plastic cover on the left (driver’s) side of the engine compartment in front of the fuse box.

I will check for an ignition spark when I have the chance, but whether or not I see a spark, it does not change the fact that no fuel is pumping. When I try to start the car, and turn the key to engage the starter, shouldn’t the ‘check engine’ or engine light light up, and then go out? If it is supposed to, and does not, doesn’t that mean that the crank position sensor is not sending a signal? Is it possible that, if no signal is detected, would voltage not be supplied to the fuel pump(s)?

Betty (who is a friend of my father-in-law’s, and is trustworthy) told me that the car ran fine before it broke down, and the mechanic told her that the fuel pump was bad. So, I was just hoping to fix the fuel system up, and get the car started without any major hurdles. I’d appreciate any help that you could provide. I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of a Bentley’s Series-3 repair manual.

When I took the starter out of the Bimmer, I had to remove the ‘air box’. I did not reinstall the air box after I put the starter back in, and connect up the wires to the sensors. Is it possible that the reason that the Bimmer ain’t starting is because the circuits which tell the computer and/or engine management unit to supply voltage to the fuel pump(s), injectors, etc and other components, are open?

So, I must put the air box back in there, and connect up those wires. Could a faulty engine crank(shaft) sensor prevent fuel from being pumped to the engine?

There is a two-prong wire connector at the back of the engine compartment on the firewall that ain’t connected to anything. I wonder what that goes to.

Although the ignition spark has nothing to do with the fuel not pumping, I will check for an ignition spark, just so that I can make sure that everything is okay with the ignition system. What should I do after that?

I’d really appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Jason

hope some one help you