1988 325iC -Idle too fast - Page 2 - United Bimmer Community

**player2poet** · 04-18-2008, 10:31 PM

oh man sorry to hear that. only other thought is the valves could need adjusting?other than that back to vacumm lines etc i know there is a thermal timing sensor that gives a signal to the tps for the idle also . it should be a one prong sensor going into the top of the therma housing should have voilet top on the sensor check that to see if your getting any resistance ,all and all i suggest getting a bentley manual its a life savor on the e30's .good luck

**Gigarod** · 04-19-2008, 06:53 AM

Well, I think I need to check if the Idle Control Valve is getting the appropriate signal. The "order to do it's thing". Because I can make it "click" by applying current to it. Maybe the system sends the signal, maybe not. I think it's just not doing anything (no "click", ever).

I've also ordered another (used) ICV. Will now be able to open one up, see what it's made of. I will get a new one somewhere down the line.

I still have not found an Idle Control Unit under the dash.

Thanks for the reply!

Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder!

**Gigarod** · 04-19-2008, 08:35 AM

I checked and replaced all vacuum lines that needed it.

I have also taken the throttle body off and cleaned it. All seemed to be in good working order.

Air Flow meter is also good (car stops clean when unplugged).

(Also changed the Throttle Position Sensor for a new one).

Thanks!

**Exilion** · 04-20-2008, 08:19 AM

This site in general has allot of info on it if this doesn't help. However this doesnt directly apply to the 1988 and up 3 series. See if it helps though.

http://www.verrill.com/car/e30_idlefaq.shtml

Quote:

Throttle Cable
If your idle is too high, make sure your throttle is really closed at the rest position. On my 325e, the previous owner had adjusted the throttle cable so that the throttle was cracked open when my foot was off the gas pedal.
To adjust the throttle, take off the intake boot. Adjust the cable until you can just barely slip a .0015" feeler gauge between the throttle plate and the throttle housing. The purpose of this tiny clearance is just to prevent the throttle plate from gouging a groove into the housing. After adjusting the throttle plate, don't forget to recheck the throttle rest position switch; you may have to readjust it. See below for a description of how to do that.

**Gigarod** · 04-20-2008, 10:03 PM

Wow, thank you much!

Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.

**Gigarod** · 04-25-2008, 10:38 AM

Changed the Idle Control Valve.
It did not fix the idle.

I'll have to dig in under the dash to find the control box (if there is one)...

**Exilion** · 04-25-2008, 11:03 AM

Ah sorry to hear that man. Look at it this way, you know what isn't wrong with it.

**Gigarod** · 04-26-2008, 03:44 PM

I cannot find an ICM under the dash.
There is only the cruise control module on the passenger side and the ABS module p0n the driver side (along with a black plastic box that I think is related to an anti theft system).

I also decided to test the adjustment of the Throttle Position Sensor. I just put the new one there in the same position as the old one. So I took the Throttle Body of, unscrewed the 2 screws and put everything back together (takes less than 1/2 hour now ;-) ). TPS is now loose and free to be re-adjusted at any time.
Started the motor and played with the TPS. Idle does not change. TPS position does nothing for the idle.
Well, I was out there, so I decided to have some fun with the Idle Control Valve... I took it out of the plastic boot that connect the MAF to the TB. I blocked both openings I just created with some rags... I then started the car. Well the idle went down. I then took the rag out of the ICV's opening and I could control the idle by placing my thumb to block it. Yes I was the new ICM :-) .
Anyway, I noticed that the ICV was vibrating, seemed to work...
I could get the idle down with my thumb then stop the car. Then replace the ICV as it should be and the idle stayed low until I touched the throttle. It then stayed up.
Seems like the ICV works, I got to check the signals it is receiving (if any).

Stay tuned for the Adventure of the Fast Idling 325!

**Gigarod** · 05-04-2008, 08:07 PM

Hey, I noticed something else.
Seems like any computer related circuit has a problem:
- Cruise control doesn't work.
- ABS lights up in dash (would rather not have it anyway...)

Maybe this idle thing is related cause this computer doesn't work for the same reason the others don't work.

Just a thaught.

**Gigarod** · 05-17-2008, 05:15 PM

Guys, I'm just wondering (cause I still got the fast idle and now it starting to choke up when I step on the gas too much)...

I changed the cylinder head when I got the car (got it cheap cause it did not run). I have only seen this car idle too fast and the previous owner said he did not have such a problem. Could it be the valves need to be adjusted or something?

TIA!

**Gigarod** · 06-28-2008, 08:43 PM

Hi guys (and guyettes).

I was getting a 1222 code.
Checked for vacuum leaks etc... (in fact I took the intake off today to check and clean everything).

Things evolved to the point were the motor would run for 10 seconds then stop.
Was the same after the work (...pleasure of course) I did today.
Well, I just went outside, took the gas cap off and started the car. It ran for 2 or 3 minutes before missing a beat!
Major development!

Now many things come to mind (gas tank vents, fuel pressure, pumps etc...).
What do I do next?
Anyone?