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E21, E30 General discussion and technical help for 1975-1991 3 series cars.

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Old 02-08-2007, 10:24 AM   #16
Numark318i
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dudesky
^^^No, NGK's are a valid replacement for Bosch, and are not specific to Japanese cars.
according to real oem its what are supposed to be in the car?


also Rooz got them...they gotta be good.


lol
Ill just get whats recomended at the parts place.(reputible..not kragen)
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:01 PM   #17
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I have NKGs in mine and i got them from the dealer when i got new plugs.
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:36 PM   #18
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oops, sorry. i only ever heard my friends who have hondas get them.
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Old 02-09-2007, 01:01 PM   #19
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ok...so after some thinking i realized the only other thing i changed was my ECU chip. Now i noticed everyonce in a while when i slammed my glove box my car shuttered. Idle went all crazy for a sec. Never made the connection that i changed my ECU, and it may be coming loose.


which it was. When i opened up my ECU my chip was not helddown with the plactic clip thats supposed to hold it down. So..i guess it either came loose or idk. so clipped it back down.

Now im charging the battery, and hopefully that fixes my problem.

I also changed my fuel pump and plugs..but i guess my pump would have gone out evntually..and plugs are basic maintainance.

Ill post results in 30 when the battery is charged
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Old 02-09-2007, 02:34 PM   #20
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ok..still not starting. Now its not even turning over.

I tried to put in the old ECU(figuring that would be the problem..still no)

The car is just clicking now.

battery at full charge.

Im just breaking shit now.

wtf!@!@#
c1apton to the rescue plz.
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:41 PM   #21
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bump...anyone have any ideas?

someone told me it could be the DME relay?

LIke i said it wont even turn over now.
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Old 02-09-2007, 06:27 PM   #22
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just clicking, not even spinning over? - check wiring - that's usually associated with starter/battery - double check ground at battery & terminals - if they're not tight or clean you're not getting full voltage for ign system. What did you use for battery? Try jump starting it with another car running.
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Old 02-09-2007, 07:20 PM   #23
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ok.
so i guess while i was, or before..idk, removing my negative and positive battery terminals i cracked my negative battery terminal..the piece has a break in it atlast. So its around the terminal, but cracked.

the lights inside the car still work, and all my nstruments light up.
so it still might not be getting enough power?

the battery is..an econo power...what ever the fuck that is.

maybe ill go to kragen and get a negative battery termial lead(the the body) and get a new battery?
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:50 PM   #24
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try a new terminal 1st before getting another battery but make sure terminals (where they make contact in the terminal & the batterey post are clean/shiny- take sand paper to them if you have to) and make sure they make good contact all the way around. Re: lights etc ... lights only need few amps - 2-3. Starter needs almost 200amps alone. That's why batterys are like 600 amps these days. That battery has to supply like 200amps to starter, amps to ignition and all the other electrical circuits all at the flip of your ignition switch. Good connections are critical to our cars - tight, clean, and good wiring.
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Old 02-09-2007, 09:22 PM   #25
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its alive.

C1apton you are the fucking man. so the problem was the ECU chip was loose.

and second symptom was the old shitty battery and screwed up terminals/connections.
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