Idle vibrations E39 540i
I have a problem with my BMW 540iA E39 Built in 2001 ECE model, VIN 7 digits GG91066. 62 000 kilometers.
It is concerning the idle and the rpms from idle to about 2000.
The engine vibrates and you can feel as if the vibrations are from misfiring of the ignition coils. Although there is no fault in the car. All the adaptions were deleted and a reprogramming was made of the DME, but no success. I have checked each coil, by idle engine running and i was pulling each cord of the ignition coil to hear a difference, but all of the coils made the engine run much more rough. and i have noticed that this vibration is only between idle and 2000, so if it would be an ignition problem, it would be all around the rpm range. What was replaced was the EML idle system and new catalysator, new service inspection, new exhaust, mass air flow sensor is OK, a new one was tested, which made the same symtoms. I have tried to take the oil cap off, whilst the engine was running, and the situation of the motor was much worst, but the same vibrations occured, only in a larger amount. so maybe the engine is taking wrong air from the intake hose or whatever which might be causeing the problem. the PCV was not checked yet, thought of getting that checked next year, and what i also did was disconnect one of the two crank position sensors, and there was no sign of change, with or without the sensor in the plug, but if both of them are disconnected the car doesnt start.
I went to various dealers of BMW and all of them just hooked my car on the MoDic, which showed no error, and asked for a large amount of money, and said all is fine.
If i put the A/C on, the rpms lift from 500 to around 750, which is ok, but you can still feel the vibrations, and the funny thing is that the rpm needle is constant. so it is only that you can hear the exhaust, and the vibrations you can feel. my dad has a 530i, which runs really smooth, and i am very dissapointed that mine has these problems.
As i said the idle is really low, even sometimes a bit below 500 if the motor is really warm, and if i press on the gas pedal a bit, to raise the rpms to 1000, and let the gas pedal go, the rpms go very fast down to 350 and up to 750, and go down to 500. and sometimes the car even stalls when i do this.
The spark plugs are new, coils seem to be fine, no oil spills any where by the engine... i really do not know what it can be.
But otherwise the car runs great but the consumption is high, but i was mostly in the city, here in Hungary.
It can also be, maybe the Lambda sensors have a fault or I really have no idea anymore.:ranting
Merry christmas and a happy new year,
Clean you ICV -(Idle control Valve) & MAF - using some carb/injector cleaner. :wiggle
Have you driven through any deep puddles lately? If you have water in the intake and gets to the manifold, the car will idle rough. Ask me how I know :)
Do you have any loss of power? How is the engine above 2000 rpms?
Right, i've just bought a 96 e39 540i.
Two days after i got it the car starts to idle funny, feels like a slight mis-fire and the car vibrates. The vibrations get worse up to 2000rpm, then it seems to be fine?!?
I've cleaned MAF, ICV, put new spark plugs in - not the slightest difference.
I'm thinking it's cat related :(
Need help :(
did you have your car washed anytime recently? i would check the coils, you may have a few that are bad, how many miles are on it?
Also check all your vac lines and don't overlook "bellows" (large hose before MAF) if any are cracked - replace them. These are usually the case for rough idle and no codes
The car has done 100,000 miles (i know fairly high maybe, she is a 96 model though, but it was such a lovely car) And my first bmw :) This minor issue aside - i really do love the car after only a week of owning her :)
How will i be able to tell which coils are bad?
The spark plug socket (Number 2 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/f/t/4.png nearest the bulkhead on the right bank of the engine (looking in from front of the car) needed a good pull to get it out when i changed the plugs - was like a plunger :|
Im not a whizz under the bonnet but i'd like to learn about my car :)
The cable to the idle control valve was slightly out of its holder on the puller so i put it in properly and tightened it up a bit. Seems to tick over fine now, but the vibration is still there up to 2000rpms (standing still and driving) over 2000rpms it seems fine and performance of the car is un-affected :| The vibration feels to come from under the bulkhead/centre console.
*edit* My dad just looked at the cable to the icv - i think something fell off the back of the the little plastic holder mid way along the cable (it sits in the hole on the metal bracket) it fell into the bottom tray..... Car seems to be idling on the little line above 0, think it is about 400 rpm or less?
I got a strong smell of petrol for about 5 seconds last night when i pullled into my driveway after being out in her for about 30 minutes.
I'll check my pipes now.
Cheers for any help guys, it's much appreciated - as i'm quite a noob:)
Was this problem ever resolved? My 94 530i e34 with 170,000km has pretty much the same symptoms with two one additional ones. Very high fuel consumption 18-20 l/100km (city) 12 l/100km (highway) and the car really stinks. It's kind of a sweet bitumen smell not really sulfurous though.
Before the problem occurred a few years ago the consumption was more like 15 l/100km (city) and 7-9 l/100km (highway)
I spent $2k on the engine as per below, but the problem was not fixed. It improved for a few days and gradually got worse over weeks. Now it is terrible. If I were to sell the car nobody would go near it...
New spark plugs
Compression test (ok)
New (Bosch reco) injectors
New engine mounts
New PCV (BMW part)
New induction hose
I have checked and cleaned the ICV and checked all induction hose clamps etc which did not help.
Did you guys ever resolve this issue ?
I had the same issue 2 weeks ago,took my car in for a service and the guys stripped the intake manifold off,the found a rubber gasket and some unit that had to be replaced,after that my fuel consumption is better,no more clouds of smoke at startup and no more noises or rough idle's.
I have the old parts at home,will take pictures and up load them and show you guys what they had to replace.
Unfortunately the problem is still there. It would be great if you could upload some pics of the replaced parts
Thanks very much
Go check this thread,
I posted on that thread about the same issue,there you can what parts were replaced.
I realy hope it helps you.
i had the same issue (or sounds the same) regarding low idling. Once the car warm-up the idle would drop below 500 but steady. I took it to a mechanic who had bmw computer to reset Idle Calibration to zero "0". It took him about 10mins to fix it. That fixed the low idling issue, the car idles around 600-700 rpms.
I have had a few of these rough idle/misfire sound cases with the BMW 540i e34 models as well (Even my own). In my cases, It turned out to be the manifold cover on the back of the intake manifold. There is a valve inside this cover made out of a kind of plastic rubber material and it tends to fall apart or get torn with age. This usually occurs around the 100,000 km mark on these models but can also be earlier. If you remove the Idle Control Valve and notice some liquid engine oil sitting in the intake manifold, especially behind the valve grommet, then the manifold cover is allowing engine oil to be sucked into the intake thus the faulty manifold cover. Some auto part stores such as Autohaus Arizona online call it an EGR emissions valve. It is BMW part number: 11617501563 for e39 models. This will also cause more exhaust smoke than usual in most cases but will cause the rough idle and misfire feel that you are experiencing. And with this problem, no codes will show up when the engine is connected to the BMW diagnosis system. It is recommended that the intake manifold be removed for easier access, which will also mean changing the intake gaskets etc. And please make sure that you use a Genuine BMW manifold cover when replacing it as the aftermarket ones give premature problems as I have experienced (the last aftermarket one I installed fell apart at 10,000 miles) and we were back to where we started. Your car will drive and feel like new again when this problem is rectified. Hope this information helps you and best of luck with the BMW.
I have recently purchased my first V8 BMW
Last weekend I drove it away on holiday and it went so well there.
However on the return trip home it was pelting down with rain, I stopped half way home for a break, the car was not running for about 2 hours.
It came time to finish the return trip home; the roads were busy so I needed to gun it to merge into the traffic.
THEN! The car suddenly lost all power and a message came up on the screen in front of the steering wheel saying something about fail safe?? The car proceeded to run roughly until I switched it off once I reached the side of the road. It started fine and has done since but now when the engine is warm it dies out sometimes when I need to stop at lights or the like. I haven’t noticed that it does this when its cold as it revs slightly higher being when cold…
Also some times when I put my foot down now it kind of misfires and takes a wile to get full power… to me, its like maybe running on 6 then after a wile flicks to 8??
Any suggestions would help me a lot…
easy to fix
i am in love with my e39 540
and i have it since 2 years
i faced too many problems since that time but driving her majesty didnt allow me to surrender
the solution for your issue is too easy, it is all about leaking air, all you have to do is to change the following :
BMW E38 Intake Manifold 1995-2001 (OEM) and make sure you buy the original ones and in the same place where this manifold is located there is two aluminium tubes, one of these tubes is also for air intake make sure its no leaking also
take care of your 540 she will take care of you:rock
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