Help me set up my system - United Bimmer Community

**MrWonka** · 06-06-2006, 01:59 AM

Basically my system blew on me 2 months, Ive had no sound since then and cant figure out why, so Im deciding to just replace everything besides the Pioneer headunit which is only a couple months old and works fine. Right now what I have is Focal speakers in the rear w/ a Rockford Fosgate 900 watt amp which I think is blown.

I want to get new rear speakers, new kickpanel speakers, new midranges and new tweeters IF I can keep the stock looking grills for all of them. I have been looking around Ebay and I decided I really only want to go with one company all around with speakers, and then an amp for $150-$175. My budget is $400, although Id like to keep it in the low $300's.

Im not looking for a booming sound system with subs or anything, just something with clear, good sound with a good 4 channel amp to power my speakers/headunit. Just wondering what your guys' suggestions are in terms of companies for speakers/amps and if someone could even try and make a list for my budget/needs that would be good too becuase I know nothing about audio. Thanks

Mike

**Chris** · 06-06-2006, 02:08 AM

^^^ you should make sure you didn't just fry they headunit. if you replace everything but the headunit and it still doesn't work, then you are out the $400 plus whatever you gotta spend on the new headunit

(sorry, from the wayt you described it, you get no sound at all and thats what i was going off of.)

**Dudesky** · 06-06-2006, 05:00 AM

Gee . . . there are always a lot of variables when it comes to sound systems. The first thing that comes to mind is that if your mids and tweeters in the doors are still original, the grilles are molded together with the OEM speakers. So unless you do some major surgery with them, you won't be able to preserve the stock look. The 2nd thing is that it's very unlikely that all your speakers went bad at the same time, so your diagnosis about the Rockford amp being faulty is probably correct. Could just be a loose/disconnected power, ground, or signal connection, or the remote turn-on wire.

Since you have no idea what might have gone wrong, I'd say don't buy everything all at once; you might not need much, if anything at all. Start with the amp, check your connections and fuse(s), and determine if it's really the culprit. Replace it if necessary, then move on to the speakers. The best setup is soundstage up front, with some rear fill. Which means that if you're on a budget, spend more on the fronts. Beyond that, sound quality is really a subjective thing, others here can make suggestions based on their experiences . .

**EcianIce** · 06-06-2006, 10:19 AM

Deffinatly test the amp out. Check the lights when you turn on the car and all things of that such. If you can't find evidence that it is bad, find some old computer or stereo speakers and plug them into the amp like your car speakers would be. If they play, then .. well I'd be confused.

As far as buying new goes. It'll be tough to stay in the $400 range if you need a new amp. Don't go low quality or you'll be sad when you try to turn the volume up much. You're looking at replacing 8 speakers and an amp (note, finding 3" speakers for the mids are gonna be tough).

Anyways here is my input on buying new audio stuffs.

Speakers - I've used Boston Acoustics and JBL. The BA's were better quality overall but the JBL put out more volume and held their (lesser than BA's) tone quality. Komodo has Infinity Kappa speakers, they're loud and strong as well. Fine set to think about there.

Amps - Again, I've used Memphis Audio as well as JL Audio. Let me break these up.

For JL audio I've had a 5channel amp to run 4 channels of speakers then the sub channel. The overall output was amazing. The interior speakers were clear and loud and the sub channel was pushing 2x JL W3v2 12"s with 250rms between them and it was plenty of power to shake the windows of the garrage while in my driveway.

For Memphis audio, I noticed less sound quality as far as the interior speakers go, but I also bought a 1300W mono d-block for my subs, since they handle 300rms each, I needed 600W to get full power from them. Anyways, wow. They make powerful sub amps.

So I leave it up to you. If you're going to replace everything I'd say to find a component set with 1" tweeters and 5.25" kick panels, then go 4" in the rear deck. If you fork over cash for a JL amp you'll use it for life.

**MrWonka** · 06-06-2006, 12:23 PM

Amp doesnt turn on b/c a light usually lights up when I start up but it doesn't anymore, headunit does turn on, just no sound comes out. Im positive the kickpanel and midranges were going out because there was barely any sound coming out of them before everything stopped working. I was planning on replacing stuff even before it stopped working just because I wanted some better sound because it wasn't very loud.

**Dudesky** · 06-06-2006, 12:50 PM

^^^Doesn't mean the amp is dead . . have you tested for voltage (power & turn on), or ground?

**MrWonka** · 06-06-2006, 04:11 PM

No, I dont know how to do that but if someone could tell me how that would be great b/c then I could test it tomorrow in autoshop. Another question is why dont any aftermarket audio companies make 2" speakers for the midranges? My other question: if I have aftermarket tweeters, do I have to use the grill/surrounding they came with, b/c I think stock looks best. Thanks for all the help.

Mike

**Dudesky** · 06-06-2006, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrWonka

No, I dont know how to do that but if someone could tell me how that would be great b/c then I could test it tomorrow in autoshop.

Tough to give advice about that long distance, since we don't know if your installer used the correct color cables and wires. But basically, the +12v should be red, and should meter at around 13.8v. The (-), or ground wire should be either black or bare wire weave. Make sure that's connected to a good metal surface. Test it for continuity with the (-) post on the battery. Then your remote turn on should be thin and blue, and that should meter less than 1v.

Quote:

Another question is why dont any aftermarket audio companies make 2" speakers for the midranges?

Because the most common woofer sizes (5-1/4" & 6-1/2") in a component system can more than adequately handle midrange tones. Not much of a market for midranges, but they do exist.

Quote:

My other question: if I have aftermarket tweeters, do I have to use the grill/surrounding they came with, b/c I think stock looks best.

As mentioned earlier, the grilles that came with the stock tweeters are molded together with the tweeter itself, so you'd either have to custom cut it all up or go with the aftermarket grilles.

**Rooz** · 06-07-2006, 12:17 AM

bring it to me we'll take care of it

**MrWonka** · 06-08-2006, 11:46 PM

Rooz too bad you're across the country else I would, I havent listened to music in my car in almost 3 months..

Ok so basically I were to get a 5.25" component set (I was thinking either Infinity, MB Quart or Pioneer) with crossovers, this would be enough to handle the stock midranges/tweeters?

Another quesiton-what is the size of the rear speakers? And I heard it is better to put more money into your front speakers compared to the back because you'll be hearing them more then the rear or something like that.

Ok so I think what Im going to get is: 5.25" component set w/crossovers, rear speakers that match the front, and a 4 channel amp for under $200.

Thanks for the help everyone

**Rooz** · 06-09-2006, 02:02 AM

You won't find a nice set of components for that price.... new that is

And also, on our cars you need to by pass the factory amp...

**MrWonka** · 06-09-2006, 03:26 AM

I didnt mean everything for under $200, I was just talking about the amp-I see component speakers goin for around $100-$130 which is the range Im looking for. Also I already have an aftermarket amp, I dont have the stock amp in so I guess the previous owner already bypassed it.

**Rooz** · 06-09-2006, 03:31 AM

look into this alpine amp MRPF250 (I think) either 250 or 240 we sell that amp for 199.99

The stock amp will be in the trunk on the driver side behind all the carpeting and such, pretty much same spot as your rear struts

**MrWonka** · 06-09-2006, 03:34 AM

Ill look for it tomorrow when its light out-I was thinking of a Pioneer amp just b/c I was also thinking of Pioneer speakers, but I was also looking into a Phoenix Gold. Any idea how big rear speakers are on pre-96 cars, b/c you're speakers are a different size then mine I think...

**Dudesky** · 06-09-2006, 04:13 AM

Just some insight on the brands you mentioned . .
MB Quart used to be a top choice among the pro's, but that was over a decade ago, before the company was sold and resold (1st to Rockford Fosgate, then to Maxxsonics). Their sound is a bit too harsh in the midrange area now. Infinity's are a very popular choice, great sonics throughout the frequency spectrum. And Pioneer speakers are decent all around if you're on a tight budget. Phoenix Gold used to be crap, but they've gotten a little better recently, still not enough to convince me tho. You definitely should take Rooz's advice about the Alpine MRPF250- very versatile, can do 2, 3, or 4 channels, bridgeable, and has built in crossovers.

As far as the speaker size in the rear, 4" is the drop-in size, but you can easily fit a 5-1/4" or 6-1/2" in there with some ingenuity.