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Car Audio and Electronics
Sponsored by: SKOB on itunes Discuss sub and speaker setups, GPS navigation, XM radio, and anything else related to car audio and electronics.
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Having a sub is basically evidence that your system is otherwise unable to reproduce mad-low frequencies (typically sub-60Hz). This can be for a number of reasons, but most commonly:
(1) You bought fancy 6x9s or some other rear-speaker setup that looked cool on the shelf, because it was a three- or four-way basket. A lot of people think that having all of those speakers run in the same assembly will split the signal better and ultimately result in a clearer sound. The problem is that anytime you ask a full-range signal to be shot through four speakers all drawing off one channel, none of that signal is going to be particularly strong or clear unless you’ve got a serious preamp and twelve-thousand band parametric equalizer.
(2) You listen to music fairly loudly, and the bass that your low-mids are giving you at lower volume doesn’t seem to be holding out after a certain point. Unless you have each of your individual channels amplified past the head unit, you’re going to run into a bit of distortion, especially if your speakers can handle a lot more than your head can give them. You won’t even be able to hear them well until the head’s pushing so hard that it distorts.
Or you could just be playing music that sends frequencies lower than what your speakers are rated for, regardless of their anatomy. Subs are pretty useful for almost any kind of music, if they’re set up properly. For instance, there’s little sense in buying and amplifying low-mids that are rated all the way down to 35Hz or something and then buying a sealed enclosure with a resident frequency of 55Hz. The key is to know where your system’s strength lies, and where it needs help relative to the sounds you’re putting through it.
I like subs..... makes any music sound better...... I don't track/race/autox, so the weight is not an issue.... even if I wanted to auto x, it would take me about 6 seconds to get her outta there..... the extra weight over the rear wheels did come in handy in my first E30 while driving in the snow..
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Your Ride: 2005 545i SMG
I had a JL 15w1 in my last car with a Precision Power A 600 bridged so it was pumpin 1200 watts into 1 15" sub. That thing was loud as hell but I sold it with the car. I don't have a sub in my Bimmer but plan on just getting a 10" sub in the trunk for some low end bass. I'm gettin older now and kind of grew out of that mass bass phase.
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Heres my problem with subs. I have a headunit and 6 speakers. A set of 5.25, set of4in~ and 6x9s. If I get a sub it will be a bass tube, to keep the weight down, and keep my cargo space. My brothers car has a headunit, a set of 3.5s, and a set of 5.25s. 10in 200watt basstube in the trunk.
Now when he turns up the bass, the speakers and the tube are trying to put out an equal level of bass, and the small speakers distort. Is there some way I can solve a problem like this in my car? I'd like to use the speakers for the mids and highs, and use the tube for the lows, but I dont see this happening without spending alot of time or money.
Your Ride: 92 525, 88 325 hardtop'ed vert and 83 320iS
You could eather adjust the level output from your amp or you can get a remote that you nca plug into your amp and control output from the amp. Some head units come with an option that you can adjust the bass through the head unit. The remote that you plug into the amp can cost from $20-40.
becuase without RCA wires you going to get music and voices comming from your sub instead of straight bass.
You should just be able to set the speaker channels to produce what you want them to, your head almost certainly has a separate output for the subwoofer. As lon as you amplify them separately, there shouldn't be a problem putting out too much bass where it shouldn't be. Just adjust the individual channels for gain on the amplifier if the smaller speakers stil distort.
Your Ride: `00 540i6 Alpine White, `96 740iL Aspen Silber
i would suggest a good quality 10" sub. Kicker, JL, Infiniti, and rockford are all good starters. I have a solobaric 10" kicker (the square ones) and i love it. Small enough so that it isn't that much weight and leaves plenty of space in the boot. Also you really don't need more than a 10" for sound purposes in a BMW cause they are small and have very good sound characteristics, so that a 10" is plenty. I have converted a bunch since high school and now shoot for sound quality rather than street pounding, hear me blow my ears music.
however i do have a pair of 15s for sale that i could split up and i have 3/4" MDF boxes for each one (two seperate boxes) Check the classifieds. I'd sell each in a seperate box for $50.