BAv-Auto Performance Coil Install. - United Bimmer Community

**defkon99** · 03-16-2006, 10:07 PM

Bavarian Autosport
High Performance Ignition Coil Installation

Safety Warning: Be sure the engine is cool before beginning Installation.

Installation Note: Depending on the mileage of your BMW, you may want to consider having a fresh set of spark plugs and valve cover gasket set on hand before begninin installation.

Procedure Note: These instructions will assume the installer is familiar with the standard ignition coil replacement procedures and has access to the appropriate repair manuals for the applicable BMW models.

3 Series 6 cyl. 92-02 except 02 M3

5 Series 6 cyl. 91-02

5 Series 8 cyl. thru 03

7 Series 8 cyl. thru 01

8 Series 8 cyl.

Z3 All 6 cyl. (Except M Roadster/M Coupe 01 on)

Z8 All

X5 6 cyl. thru 02
8 cyl. thru 02

Procedure:
1. Open the Engine hood. Remove the plastic Valve cover trim Panels by first removing the oil filler cap and the plastic plugs which cover the trim panel retaining nuts. On V8s, remove the center intake manifold trim cover in a similar manner.

2. For each coil, gently pry up the coil harness plug lock clip and remove the harness plug from the coil. To avoid confusion and screwing up which cable goes where do 1 at a time starting from the front or from the back whatever is easier for you, I did these from the front and worked my way back.

3. Remove the two coil mounting bolts from coil the coil and gently pull up the Coil assembly. The spark plug connector boot may be stuck to the plug. If so, twist the coil a bit while pulling up. (Repeat for each coil)

4. A) Inspect spark plug cavities for evidence of any oil. If there is oil in any of the cavities, the valve cover gasket is leaking and should be replaced. The oil can cause random mis-fires and will contribute to deteriorization of the spark plug connector boots.

B) If you’re installing new spark plugs, do so at this point.

5. Add the silicone dielectric compound included with your coils,
Info:Silicone Dielectric Compound conditions spark plug wires and boots to prevent deterioration and fusing to spark plugs. Eliminates arcing and voltage leaks.

6. Carefully install the new high-performance coil and boot assemblies over the spark plugs and push down until the coil is fully seated and against the valve cover. Install the coil retaining bolts.
7. Install the coil harness plugs and secure the retaining clips on the plugs.

8. Install the plastic trim cover and the oil filler cap.

Now take your bimmer for a ride!

**c1apton** · 03-16-2006, 10:21 PM

Nice DIY -

**komodo** · 03-16-2006, 10:23 PM

Great DIY, I actually didn't know it was that easy.

Another excellent addition to the Knowledge Base:
http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-h...stallation.php

Thanks!

**RSF5** · 03-16-2006, 10:43 PM

Hey There are 20 DIY in the e36 but only 2 in the e46. I SMELL BIAS!

**defkon99** · 03-16-2006, 10:53 PM

well cmon e46'ers catch up!

**komodo** · 03-16-2006, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSF5

Hey There are 20 DYI in the e36 but only 2 in the e46. I SMELL BIAS!

So make some e46 diys!

**Rooz** · 03-17-2006, 08:58 PM

humm.. ur car is an M?

**defkon99** · 03-17-2006, 09:04 PM

oh naw,, i thought the engine was an M, turns out its just an M coverplate...

**Rooz** · 03-17-2006, 09:17 PM

Looks like someone has a remote start or electrical fan?

How's the power diff?

**defkon99** · 03-17-2006, 09:38 PM

Much more responsive with a kick! ,much smoother idle, and thats with 5 month old plugs.
i actually just bought some fresh plugs im goin to drop in, which should improve it somewhat, but overall, definitely worth the money.

**Rob** · 03-18-2006, 07:47 AM

Spark plugs can last over 80,000 miles. 5 months means nothing to them. Also, you probably should mention not to over-torque the nuts down, because you could easily pull up some studs from the valve cover. I think the torque is somewhere in the 20s, and what I do is just hand tighten while pushing down on the coil pack, then give the nut a good 1/2 turn with the wrench. Anymore and you may have problems.

**C Sean Watts** · 03-31-2009, 08:54 AM

I'm ordering some for my '97. The car runs well as it is but I have used MSD and Jacob's coils on other cars and the improvement from coils alone was always worth it in long run.

I'll be posting before and after results....

BTW, DOES ANYONE KNOW WHO MANUFACTURES THESE? BAV isn't sharing too much..

**C Sean Watts** · 05-08-2009, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C Sean Watts

I'm ordering some for my '97. The car runs well as it is but I have used MSD and Jacob's coils on other cars and the improvement from coils alone was always worth it in long run.

I'll be posting before and after results....

BTW, DOES ANYONE KNOW WHO MANUFACTURES THESE? BAV isn't sharing too much..

UPDATE: I got them and measured the resistance of the primary sides on all coils. All are in the factory range 0.4 to 0.8 Ohm. I installed them...I changed NOTHING but the coils.
1. Slightly quicker start up warm and cold.
2. Idle is about the same. Idle was smooth before the change so I'm not surprised.
3. BIG improvement in acceleration, felt and measured. I went to a known 1800 foot marked area with little traffic. Started from a stop and WOT to the end. With stock coils = 0.40 seconds slower.

4. I'll update with mileage differences in a few tank fulls.

**scooter** · 05-08-2009, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C Sean Watts

UPDATE: I got them and measured the resistance of the primary sides on all coils. All are in the factory range 0.4 to 0.8 Ohm. I installed them...I changed NOTHING but the coils.
1. Slightly quicker start up warm and cold.
2. Idle is about the same. Idle was smooth before the change so I'm not surprised.
3. BIG improvement in acceleration, felt and measured. I went to a known 1800 foot marked area with little traffic. Started from a stop and WOT to the end. With stock coils = 0.40 seconds slower.

4. I'll update with mileage differences in a few tank fulls.

its more new vs old thing, the coils add nothing much if any at all there have been a number of tests that showed without a doubt that "H.O/performance" coils showed zero gains.

**C Sean Watts** · 05-10-2009, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scooter

its more new vs old thing, the coils add nothing much if any at all there have been a number of tests that showed without a doubt that "H.O/performance" coils showed zero gains.

Disclosure: I am not affiliated in any way with the company making or selling the parts I use, test or describe.

What we do know about flyback transformers, or LOPT, is they do not "get old and wear out" without some kind of quantifiable failure. Mechanical failure in them like a break or short in one of the windings do cause them to fail. In an OBDII car (at least according to the BMW FSM) will cause a MIL/CEL. I had neither case. The original coils also measured within factory specs (primary side resistance.) We also know that potential (voltage) makes the spark happen. But, it's current (amps) that light the fuel. Too much of either and NEITHER will happen. Since I did not change primary input, the only way to effect secondary output is to change the coils, themselves.

My experience over 20+ years of street and track - parts and service has included using Jacob's Electronics systems, Accel and MSD systems. The results all varied as much as the engines they were put on. The ONLY time I measure a zero gain was when an electronic ignition module happened to fail at the time we were testing. The change I described was carefully tested, measured and repeated.

Anyone interested in this subject, I refer you to the book by Dr. Christopher Jacobs, Performance Ignition Systems published by HP books #HP1306.

About 19 years ago, I had one of his first edition books on the same subject. It clearly takes electrical engineering theory and explains it in practical terms, as used in the real world.