E36 Clutch Replacement DIY - Page 2 - United Bimmer Community

**Dudesky** · 11-19-2007, 04:42 AM

^^^Holy crap, where the eff have you been? Yea, on top of the concrete cinder blocks, it's 2 layers of 3/4" plywood with chocks on the ends made from 2x4's, all glued and screwed together.

**defkon99** · 11-19-2007, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dudesky

^^^Holy crap, where the eff have you been? Yea, on top of the concrete cinder blocks, it's 2 layers of 3/4" plywood with chocks on the ends made from 2x4's, all glued and screwed together.

lol good to see ya too!

great ill make a note of that. hey one thing think its high enough to pull the trans from under it?

**Dudesky** · 11-19-2007, 02:31 PM

^^^Yes, it was. It fully clears without tilting or turning it to the side, even if your suspension was lowered.

**peterkdenny** · 03-07-2008, 07:22 PM

i just finished doing my clutch! pain in the but, even though i didnt drop the exhaust of the driveshaft. you dont really need to. but, the clutch doesn't disengage when i push the clutch in. not cool. i guess im going to try bleeding the clutch as soon as i can get a pressure bleeder, does anyone have any suggestions?

**JetBlack328i** · 03-07-2008, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterkdenny

i just finished doing my clutch! pain in the but, even though i didnt drop the exhaust of the driveshaft. you dont really need to. but, the clutch doesn't disengage when i push the clutch in. not cool. i guess im going to try bleeding the clutch as soon as i can get a pressure bleeder, does anyone have any suggestions?

first off my hats off to dudesky very nice DIY write up!!!

peterkdenny are you missing a spring or something? not sure but possibley air in the lines. have someone help you and do it without a pressure bleeder

**iamcreepingdeath** · 03-07-2008, 09:46 PM

I don't think he is missing a spring. I did the clutch change with him. I put the slave cylinder back in myself, i don't know if i had to do something special, i just pushed the slave cylinder back into place, compressing the shaft against the clutch arm, i don't know if i am supposed to like open the clutch fluid reservoir or something like that.

The problem is, Peter's clutch doesn't fully disengage, even with the clutch pedal to the floor. Does anyone know what can cause this? I don't think we missed anything, we were extra careful.

**djbmw** · 10-02-2009, 08:58 AM

Sorry to revive an old thread but for anyone who has encountered the same issue (clutch not disengaging),.. you might have installed the disc backwards. If you did,.. HOPEFULLY it isnt snagged on something. Take the tranny back off,.. remove the clutch disc and ensure that its on the correct way. If you're not able to remove the transmission (feels like its snagged on something),.. you might have fused together the clutch disc with the transmission dust cover that goes over the input shaft - Good luck in getting that off! you might as well smash the bell housing with a hammer to get it off and buy a new transmission.

**yudi** · 12-05-2010, 05:16 AM

What can be happen if we are not put marking on drive shaft and transmission side and reinstall guibo coupling not in the same place?
because I just replace guibo coupling with new one and forget to
put or make marking. thanks

**djbmw** · 12-05-2010, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yudi

What can be happen if we are not put marking on drive shaft and transmission side and reinstall guibo coupling not in the same place?
because I just replace guibo coupling with new one and forget to
put or make marking. thanks

Marking the guibo, driveshaft and tranny output flange ensures that everything remains balanced. If you want your car to run quiet and smooth,.. make sure its all aligned as it once was. HOWEVER,.. I have switched things around many times on two of my e36's and, although there was some vibration while driving 'unaligned', it was mild in comparison to the vibrations from my exhaust.

There is also the risk of speeding up the deterioration of your drive shaft bearing... or the differential output seal with the new vibrations....

but those are very easy and innexpensive to replace if/when they do fail anyway

**GregW** · 10-01-2012, 12:18 PM

I know it's been a long long time - 5 years now? But I am going to attempt this DIY myself an I wanted to know if there were any "specialty" tools you needed? Also, I noticed that a few of the pictures don't load (broken links). Are those available somewhere?

Thanks!
Greg