Update, I pulled the cover off from under the driver's side to get access to the pedal switches. The clutch switch that triggers the cruise control to turn off, and most likely also to allow the car to start requires the clutch to be pulled up hard against the "fully engaged stop" - only then would it audibly click. I've been driving old European sticks for a long time and this doesn't bother me. I just used a "side by side" wire tap to connect to the two wires together behind the switch. Now they are connected, but if someone in the future wants to put it back they can just remove the tap and tape over the connection spots. The plug and switch are still in place.
I'm happy with the result. No change in vehicle behavior for me and now the CC works!
Also, the brake still cancels the CC, which is how I cancel it anyways. and of course the switch will cancel it if you want.
Also, I accidently pulled apart the perfectly functioning brake switch by mistake. I was groping around and thought I had the clutch switch. I'm a big guy and its tough for me to get in there.
So now I get to replace the brake switch like everybody else! I actually managed to put the switch back together so the lights work fine but the computer gives me the brake circuit message.
Any reason to buy the BMW OEM vs JL Germany switch for half the price from bavauto.com?