Ended up having the car towed to Fontana Alternator and Starter out here in San Bernardino County and had them pull the starter, rebuild it and reinstall it. Took them a couple of hours of labor plus parts and came out to $220 for everything. Towed it back home and started reinstalling everything. Biggest challenge was reconnecting the two vacuum hoses that come off the underside of the intake manifold. The originals were as short as possible to make their connection so to leave them the same length would have meant dropping the intake manifold all the way in and then trying to reach in and find them and connect them. No way. I replaced them with much longer hoses which allowed me to only partially drop the intake manifold in, connect the vacuum hoses and then drop the manifold all the way. Be sure to take advantage of having the manifold out to check/change the crankcase vent valve hoses as well. Another tip is to take off the "tray" that is over the blower fan and detach the wiring harness from it first. That plus taking off the fuel rail and detaching the fuel lines from it give you all the access you need to get at that last manifold nut. I also took off the front bracket that the underside of the manifold attaches to which allows you to tilt the manifold up, let the CVV clear and then bring the back underside of the manifold out from under the rear bracket. I labelled every connector I disconnected with masking tape and wrote on the tape what it attached to. I also marked every hose with colored marker and marked what they attach to with the same color. Be sure to spin any hose clamps around so you can reach them to tighten them when you reattach the hoses. Be sure to check the boot between the MAF sensor and the throttle body for any cracks. Be careful detaching the hose that connects to the opening on the bottom of the boot or you will tear the boot and have to replace it. Disconnecting the fuel lines from the fuel rail is a pain. Apparently, BMW has a special tool for this but a small thin screwdriver can be used to push the 4 locking tabs on the inside of the fitting to be able to remove the fuel lines. Have something ready to plug them because fuel will come out. I recommend opening up the gas cap and letting the car sit for 24 hours to relieve as much fuel pressure before this step. Those lines need to be plugged to make sure no fuel leaks out while you are working. My solution was a couple of #2 pencils that fit perfectly. Every nut, bolt, washer, etc. went into a labeled zip lock bag so I could track where they went. As I reinstalled everything, each bag went into the trash. No leftover bags = no leftover parts. Finished it up today and it started right up. Rough at first probably due to air in the fuel system. After a couple of minutes it started running smoothly but started getting steam rising from the rear of the engine. Radiator fluid leaked out onto different areas of the engine each time it was towed and that was what was steaming as it evaporated. Check your coolant level after letting the car warm up enough for the thermostat to open. Hope these tips help. Gotta highly recommend Fontana Starter and Alternator for their work.