I probably have the receipts in the file, but it would take a lot of rummaging to find them. As I recall, it was over $100 for the cylinder and over $100 for the housing, and about $80 for a new key.
I was annoyed because they charged me over $100 for a simple aluminum casting and they did not bother to tap the threads in the bolt hole where the screw attaches the wiring harness to the housing. I already had it almost completely back together when I noticed that there were no threads in that hole. Of course, I did not have the correct size tap, and I was not going to dismantle it and return the part to the dealer, so I had to attach the wiring harness to the housing with a zip tie.
When you take it apart, disconnect the battery for several minutes before touching the air bag.
Take note of the location and orientation of the two spacer rings. If you put them back wrong, the steering wheel will rub.
You need a dremel tool and a cutting wheel to cut slots in the security bolts. Then you need a very short straight blade screwdriver bit and a wrench to turn it to loosen those bolts. If you have an old ratcheting box end wrench from the olden days when GM car batteries had side terminals, that wrench will fit a screwdriver bit.
Grease the upper steering column bearing when you are transferring it from the old housing to the new housing.
A short piece of 3/4" PVC sprinkler pipe under the steering wheel bolt is the best way to press the snap ring back into its groove.
Don't connect the battery until after the air bag is back in place.