I figured this out and the steps to take. First off, you can check the voltages to the lock actuator w/o taking lock actuator out. Wedge something into the loop hole on the body where the door latches, so you can use the button to lock and unlock the doors even when it's open, and hook up a 5v lightbulb or multimeter to look for the voltage spikes between the heavy-gauge black wire and one of the other heavy wires when you press the lock button. (I used a digital multimeter with a single-run trigger so I could look at the waveform!). but another lock actuator, a functioning one, could be used too. Turns out it was the lock actuator. I eventually succeeded in taking the actuator out without removing the window first (it was near impossible, but still possible).. The actuator looked perfectly fine, but it just didn't work. The new one worked just fine! That's all I know.